The LNER Encyclopedia

Minor life update from me, spent a bit of time testing my second-hand loco's today, specifically a Replica Railways Thompson B1 and a Dapol Terrier (which at some point will be a the donor chassis for a GER 'Buckjumper').

As expected, they're both fairly growly but servicable- but I had an unexpected problem with the B1; the middle axle on the tender had popped from the guide holes, and caused the tender to constantly derail. I managed to fix it, but it was a faff I could have done without.

The Terrier's not bad thing, they make noise but don't have a natural tendency to destroy themselves in my experience. A friend of mine has an exhibition layout based on Sodor and his Stepney model has a good few miles on it and still runs fine.
The Replica B1 on the other hand...um. That's likely to revert to its component parts with little provocation. It does give you a good excuse to try a Comet chassis though.

Paul

... Oh dear god, I hope not; I'm so ham-handed I make Jeremy Clarkson look like nimble-fingered watch-repairer.

Sorry, there is the alternative option of tracking down a Bachmann B1 chassis (the old split frame type) that are much better than the Replica chassis and also a straight swap. Kept clean and lubricated they work well enough. I don't have a B1, but I do own a Replica Modified Hall ( shhhhhh, keep that quiet) with a Bachmann chassis and use it for Club open days, good maintenance keeps it running surprisingly well.

Paul

If it ever came down to that, I'd probably be looking for someone I could pay to build it.

nzpaul wrote: ↑Sun Jul 04, 2021 9:37 pm The Terrier's not a bad thing, they make noise but don't have a natural tendency to destroy themselves in my experience. A friend of mine has an exhibition layout based on Sodor and his Stepney model has a good few miles on it and still runs fine...

To add to which, although I have only looked at one example of the mechanism in these - don't know whether original Dapol or produced by Hornby after they bought the tools - and mechanically it is akin to the J94 from the same design shop. These I have worked on to reduce the noise, and what that mechanism needs is a little fettling of the moulded plastic motor mount and geartrain enclosure and possibly adding a slim washer or two, to optimise motor shaft position and alignment and gear meshing, for a smooth and quiet runner. I don't recall if the Terrier has a sprung axle, but if not it should be possible to add one. (My own J94 was done sufficiently long ago that a Lenz Gold decoder was installed, and the running has been comparable to the Bachmann and Hornby 08's over the 15 or so years since the work was done.)

Unexpected good news today; my Bachmann B1 arrived in the post today; I wasn't expecting it until tomorrow.

Now I just need to try and diagnose the problem with it- I got it cheapish from Ellis Clark Trains as it apparently has a dodgy motor or something- it's described as 'limping along'.

Limping would be either

Bowed driving wheels or Cracked plastic axle muffs .

I tried to get some axle muffs from Bachmann for a J72 , answer sold out !.

No idea re replacement Motor .

NZRedBaron wrote: ↑Tue Jul 06, 2021 7:31 am ...Now I just need to try and diagnose the problem with it- I got it cheapish from Ellis Clark Trains as it apparently has a dodgy motor or something- it's described as 'limping along'.

Exactly as 'Mick B' has suggested this will be a problem in the mechanism, and not the motor, and the top two suspects have been identified for you. Gently does it with these mechanisms. If the wheel face inserts have bowed out it is simplest to carefully cut them away, leaving the wheel sets undisturbed. The B1 proved one of the best, and was the last of my 'road engines' in operation. (I still have a J72 split chassis mechanism running rebodied as a J69 but that's both lightweight and only the occasional shunter at Hatfield so doesn't run much distance or haul loads of any great size.)

I wore out any number of Bachmann split chassis mechanisms, keeping them going with regular repairs and salvaged replacements of the prone to fail driveline plastic parts, until so much of the plating was worn off the tyres, stub axles and axle locations that pick up was awful and the scrap bin beckoned. The best of them lasted about six years to wear out. Never once had a motor failure. (Bachmann as good as acknowledged that this was a short life mechanism by the provision of complete replacements, while this was current product.)

Naturally, life span in years all depends on how often / much you run the locos. Not a lot in my case, hence I still have working 1990s Bachmann split-axle locos.

Absolutely so. I have a model railway for timetable operation, and operate a lot, so unavoidable wear has consequences. (Some folks worry about the mechanical longevity of the current design RTR OO product from China, but if my experience is anything to go by there's no cause for this. My WD 2-8-0s weighted to 450g for traction on 60 wagon drags still going as well as ever over 20 years in service. Most owners won't give them a tenth that much work.)

Okay, so, pop question time; I'm thinking to get another Pacific for my roster, and I've got two in mind; a second hand 2002-ish Hornby tender-drive Humorist, or a discounted Chamossaire.

What say you all?

Putting my very heavy bias towards the A3 aside. From a quality of the product perspective, your probably better off with the somewhat less elegant A2. Despite Humorist being one of the last of the tender drive types made, you still have to deal with traction tyres and less than smooth performance, although those later 5 pole Ringfield motors weren't altogether terrible. I'm not sure if Hornby ever really cured their tender driven locos propensity to bowl around the layout with the driving wheels locked up either.
You may find you have to reattach some loose bits on the A2 if the current rendition of quality control plays out. At it's core though, the new model has a refined and strong mechanism.
Just my thoughts of course, not telling you what to do with your money. Whichever way you go I hope you get a good one.

Paul

Time for some more thoughts; this time, for paint.

Picked up some of Alan Rose's GCR Barnum coaches for my layout, and I'm unsure what colours to get so as to give them the proper LNER varnished teak look- baring in mind that my range choices are Humbrol, Humbrol, and maybe Citadel Paints.

For my Barnums I'm using matt 46 as an undercoat and then a let-down satin 133 for the top.

Which gives this: