Saint Johnstoun wrote:4-8-2
My original tender drive 4-8-2 used 2 old old Margate Tender Drive A1 bodies and the cab from an A4. My current project is using two current China A3 bodies and a Bachmann A4 cab.
Somewhere in the dark and distant past there are piccies of my original conversion on this site.
Atlantic 3279 wrote:Given the virtual non-availability (as far as I can find) of the new China-made super-detail A3 bodies, the high prices that they can command when they rarely appear, and the "fragility" which is objected to in a previous post, I would strongly suggest that it is worth looking at the option of two, cheap, Margate Hornby round-dome (A1) pacific boilers. I've even been considering one of these as the foundation for a V2, A2/2 or early A2/2 body if necessary. So whats' the logic? Okay, the dome has to be neatly changed, the cab sides, or whole cab may have to be altered, but this body is free from the boiler under-skirts of the old Triang Hornby Flying Scotsman body, and unlike the later A3 variants of this body the whole boiler is in one piece. Every version of the tender-drive body that I've seen with a factory banjo dome has a separate section of boiler-top between the firebox and the second band behind the smokebox, and this section doesn't fit properly, so that there's a height step in the boiler-top adjoining a boiler band at each end of that section (plus a horrible joint halfway down each side of most of the boiler, not hidden by an ejector pipe on at least one side). The step-joints next to boiler bands are partly hidden by the presence of those bands, but as all of the conversions that we are talking about are likely to require boiler bands in different positions to the original ones near the front of the barrel, those steps in heights is going to be a nuisance.
Atlantic 3279 wrote:Yes, I like it!
'Tis a bit awkward about the motor width. I'm not sure whether the avoidance of that problem would actually have justified the extra work needed to add the fourth coupled wheelset to the front of the original unit, shifting cylinders and motion bracket forward in the process (or cutting and splicing two chassis at a point further forwards).
Atlantic 3279 wrote: Measuring my spare Margate "Royal Lancer" body there is certainly width to accommodate a 14mm wide Mashima flat-can over the leading coupled wheels, and a 1428 or 1430 if you can get one would gives bags of power (and just as importantly, torque). As you've evidently got the motor out now anyway, you must be well placed to see whether a bit of ingenuity would allow the transfer of the worm gear to a Mashima (preferably without wrecking the bearings/armature in the old motor through rough pulling of the gear), and the mounting of same in the chassis. If you are stuck, let's confer further on the point, I'd be interested to see this one solved without recourse to notchy Ringfield tender drive or expensive Bull-Ant unit. The power is after all best placed in the loco.
If you end up with a spare Hornby motor or two, with or without worm gear, either you'd have a handy spare for the future or you could flog them off. Good luck.
Atlantic 3279 wrote: Of course, if you don't fancy interfering with motor and gears, you could scrape / chisel / file / mill an extra 1mm out of the thick boiler sides to open the motor slot up to something like 17mm, as far forward as the new leading edge position of the existing Hornby motor. That does have the cosmetic disadvantage of raising the visible lower edge of the boiler to splasher-top level or thereabouts in areas both fore and aft of the third coupled axle.
Atlantic 3279 wrote: Just been looking at your image 88 and thinking again EM. Although you've filed flat the "bed" area for the motor in the aft portion of chassis, you still have the option to unscrew the rear upright motor bracket and it move it backwards to the position available on your aft chassis piece. If you can then pull the worm gear with sufficient care, and find (or slim down) a piece of rod to match precisely the armature shaft diameter as well as piece of tube that fits (or can be bored to fit) perfectly over the shaft, there's the possibility of extending the shaft at the front of the motor to mount the worm gear where you want it, forward over the pinion wheel. You'd have to instal some sort of bearing where the front of the motor previously was, to support the extended shaft and keep the gears correctly meshed, and probably a new bracket to hold the front of the motor in its new position, but (surely?) those tasks can't be impossible. You can then retain your original motor, but inside part of the body in which it WILL fit without and butchery, save for any minor trimming to relieve tight spots that (by the look of my spare body) might occur around the base of the inside of the backhead.
Saint Johnstoun wrote:... I would suggest Graeme's idea of moving the motor as this approach does not seem unsurmountible. I have a few spare banjo domes if you need one 2002? (both types - original and later).....
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