Holding your work whilst working on it is one of the biggest challenges in 2mm scale (and others). The simplest way is to glue the component to a bigger piece of metal to hold in the vice. The holding area can be flooded with a puddle of fast setting cyanoacrylate and then the rod dropped into place: the glue is then ‘set’ with some accelerator liquid. The photo below shows how I set up the con rods for re-drilling the big end holes in the brasses. The measured position from the little end was marked with a fine marker pen and then the table shifted on the axis using the dial from the little end reference point: the drill more or less landed on the spot (I erred on making it a touch shorter). Removal and clean up with a scalpel blade is straightforward.

Once it all felt pretty free, the temporary plastic insulation collar was replaced with a steel version. The top of the cross head was coated with a black indelible marker pen, to act as an anti-flux. The steel collar was cut from a 0.4mm bore syringe needle.

A minuscule amount of this German flux was applied to the tip. This flux is excellent for steel, it is a bit ‘oily’ and very corrosive.

The iron is brought into contact with the pin and flux with just a small amount 145 degree solder on the tip. It boils up the flux and the solder immediately flashes into the joint, at which point the iron is removed, of course. I have never got on with cigarette paper washers when assembling valve gear as they make the joints too sloppy.

The con rods are a very close fit to the slide bars at top and bottom of the crank throw, but they just kiss past, I don’t think the bars will need any adjustment. The big end will probably have a turned collar made for it.

The alignment on the frames, wheels and valve gear is quite satisfactory, without any nasty bends anywhere: an advantage of working to a true scale / gauge.

The front steps will need to be robust and well fixed as they must not touch the connecting rod (at least on one side).
Tim