Robs workbench...in works grey...
Moderators: 52D, Tom F, Rlangham, Atlantic 3279, Blink Bonny, Saint Johnstoun, richard
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rob
- GCR D11 4-4-0 'Improved Director'
- Posts: 432
- Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2006 1:19 pm
- Location: Cork Ireland
Mick-time has not been on my side over Christmas but I do have a tin of that Precision Teak so will have a go at the vans fairly soon,and may also take the time to do the handrails on other stock if it seems to look right on the vans. Note also I've not tried to do the footboards black,it has not worked out on previous attempts,a combination of ham-fistedness and too glaring a contrast on my non-weathered stock!
Hif4kphantom wrote:Hi Mick, I have also been using the Precision Teak but haven't been able to get the same depth of colour as yours. Do you use any specific primer, I am using Halfords standard grey stuff but wonder if perhaps yellow would be better?
Cheers, John
nearly forgot the coach has also been sprayed with Satin Varnish which brings out the colour as well as protecting the decals
Mick
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f4kphantom
- LNER Thompson L1 2-6-4T
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Sun Nov 11, 2007 3:52 pm
- Location: Durham
Thanks for the info Mick, it seems that I need to invest in an airbrush. I still mainly use bristly brushes (albeit decent ones!). The standard of finish you and some of the other forum members attain with an airbrush is fantastic. What make of airbrush do you use? I see all sorts of different makes e.g. Paasche, Badger, Iwata and some fantastic prices; is it true you get what you pay for? I mainly model in 2mm/N gauge. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Hi
I have a Iwata and a secondhand compresser. Both bought via ebay ,
Airbrushes are a pain at times you must keep them clean to get good results, I always use plenty of thinners after each use.
It depends on what you intend to use the airbrush for simple overspray of varnish?, then you can probably get away with a cheap one e.g Badger do reasonable priced ones to start out with .
I used to use Propelant cans but they freeze after a short time and are expensive ,get a compressor if you can afford it.
Mick
I have a Iwata and a secondhand compresser. Both bought via ebay ,
Airbrushes are a pain at times you must keep them clean to get good results, I always use plenty of thinners after each use.
It depends on what you intend to use the airbrush for simple overspray of varnish?, then you can probably get away with a cheap one e.g Badger do reasonable priced ones to start out with .
I used to use Propelant cans but they freeze after a short time and are expensive ,get a compressor if you can afford it.
Mick
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rob
- GCR D11 4-4-0 'Improved Director'
- Posts: 432
- Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2006 1:19 pm
- Location: Cork Ireland
Here goes on a pair of Nu-Cast 04's which I began last week,I'm expecting slowish progress!
Nice cleancastings though showing slight signs of tired moulds,good looking chassis etches which turn out to be less easy than expected!
And here is two nights work.In terms of fitting the bearings and setting up level the etch is a big success but clearance for the pony truck at the front was insufficent.My brutal solution was to cut the front of the frames off and enlarge the cut out in front of the cylinder stretcher.The pony wheels supplied were the older patter with big flanges and an option would have perhaps been to use 13mm RP25 instead but with my sharp curves I always opt to over-engineer clearances anyway!
The set on the right has not yet been modified,the one on the curve has and shows how the chassis tolerates the 3rd rad settrack.My dodge is to fit the middle pair of vearings with the flanges inwards and so far it has worked(Millholme Q4,DJH Q7) but means you must drive on the rear axle.
There will also be fun and games fitting the rods,esp as the 04's connect on the third axle!
And here we are to date with footplates fitted.Again the etch was less than perfect as the spacer and chassis fixing hole at the rear did not line up-I redrilled the footplate.At the front,the locating hole in the chassis plate had to be considerably elongated.More positively,the foot plate requires little if any filing for clearance on the wheels,unusual with these older generation kits.A good way to go yet........expect irregular updates!
Nice cleancastings though showing slight signs of tired moulds,good looking chassis etches which turn out to be less easy than expected!
And here is two nights work.In terms of fitting the bearings and setting up level the etch is a big success but clearance for the pony truck at the front was insufficent.My brutal solution was to cut the front of the frames off and enlarge the cut out in front of the cylinder stretcher.The pony wheels supplied were the older patter with big flanges and an option would have perhaps been to use 13mm RP25 instead but with my sharp curves I always opt to over-engineer clearances anyway!
The set on the right has not yet been modified,the one on the curve has and shows how the chassis tolerates the 3rd rad settrack.My dodge is to fit the middle pair of vearings with the flanges inwards and so far it has worked(Millholme Q4,DJH Q7) but means you must drive on the rear axle.
There will also be fun and games fitting the rods,esp as the 04's connect on the third axle!
And here we are to date with footplates fitted.Again the etch was less than perfect as the spacer and chassis fixing hole at the rear did not line up-I redrilled the footplate.At the front,the locating hole in the chassis plate had to be considerably elongated.More positively,the foot plate requires little if any filing for clearance on the wheels,unusual with these older generation kits.A good way to go yet........expect irregular updates!
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Frazmataz
- NBR D34 4-4-0 'Glen'
- Posts: 268
- Joined: Mon Oct 30, 2006 5:45 pm
- Location: Wirral, Cheshire
Someone had better make an RTR O4 soon. I just can't afford to spend nearly (or in some places over) 100 pounds on a kit that doesn't even come with wheels, gears or motor when you could get a fully finished model at as low as 60 pounds (through store discounts, of course) 
Great work on the chassis so far!
Great work on the chassis so far!
The user formerly known as Bass.
Hey Rob,
Looking good so far, the O4 is a loco I would like to get round to building soon in N. The foxhunter kit looks good but I think that scratch building will be the only option to keep costs down.
I look forward to seeing your progress - are you going to attempt any variations of the class with these? In case your interested there was an interesting article in the Model Railway Journal a couple of years back detailing a scratch built model in 3mm scale and notes detailing several of the varients - I'll see if I can find which issue it was if you like...
Looking good so far, the O4 is a loco I would like to get round to building soon in N. The foxhunter kit looks good but I think that scratch building will be the only option to keep costs down.
I look forward to seeing your progress - are you going to attempt any variations of the class with these? In case your interested there was an interesting article in the Model Railway Journal a couple of years back detailing a scratch built model in 3mm scale and notes detailing several of the varients - I'll see if I can find which issue it was if you like...
Steve
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rob
- GCR D11 4-4-0 'Improved Director'
- Posts: 432
- Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2006 1:19 pm
- Location: Cork Ireland
Bass-yes it seems like the long way round alright but,bizarre though it seems the current RTR locos are TOO detailed for me so won't fit in with my other locos !...thus I will also need to kit build a V1,V2,J39 etc eventually.
As a plus,I really enjoy the building despite the frequent frustrations and in some ways its cost efficent-the kits are very expensive but theres weeks of work in each!
I would expect though that an 04 will materialise fairly soon in RTR but we will never see the wide range of types needed for the inter-war period I'm afraid!
Steve-brilliant job on the J6,I look forward to seeing this project progress-did you get the C1 lined etc? and where are you getting the supply of farish tender tops from?My impression was that spares for Farish have always been impossible to obtain!
I'm sure I've seen that MRJ piece-was it the gifted John Sutton?If you could track down which issue easily I would look it up.Generally speaking the major variants are towards the end of my period so this pair will be very standard I expect.Thanks!
Rob
As a plus,I really enjoy the building despite the frequent frustrations and in some ways its cost efficent-the kits are very expensive but theres weeks of work in each!
I would expect though that an 04 will materialise fairly soon in RTR but we will never see the wide range of types needed for the inter-war period I'm afraid!
Steve-brilliant job on the J6,I look forward to seeing this project progress-did you get the C1 lined etc? and where are you getting the supply of farish tender tops from?My impression was that spares for Farish have always been impossible to obtain!
I'm sure I've seen that MRJ piece-was it the gifted John Sutton?If you could track down which issue easily I would look it up.Generally speaking the major variants are towards the end of my period so this pair will be very standard I expect.Thanks!
Rob
Rob,
Thanks for the comments on the J6 - inspired by the before mentioned article by John Sutton (RMJ No. 157 17th Feb 2005).
The atlatic hasn't seen the light of day since the move, I've been avoiding this project due to problems getting the current wheel set up working propertly. The problem with the method used is that the chassis is cast with the body and makes modification very difficult. I'm half tempted to scrap the atlatic and start again in brass (no real worry as the bodies were sourced as damaged spares from UM and didn't cost much). Besides I'm enjoying scratch building in brass, there is something realy satisfying about it.
Thanks for the comments on the J6 - inspired by the before mentioned article by John Sutton (RMJ No. 157 17th Feb 2005).
The atlatic hasn't seen the light of day since the move, I've been avoiding this project due to problems getting the current wheel set up working propertly. The problem with the method used is that the chassis is cast with the body and makes modification very difficult. I'm half tempted to scrap the atlatic and start again in brass (no real worry as the bodies were sourced as damaged spares from UM and didn't cost much). Besides I'm enjoying scratch building in brass, there is something realy satisfying about it.
Steve
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rob
- GCR D11 4-4-0 'Improved Director'
- Posts: 432
- Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2006 1:19 pm
- Location: Cork Ireland
Cylinders and slidebars were this weeks effort
The slidebars and motion bracket both required considerable modification to get them to fit as can be seen here!
One pair are in place,the others are having the crossheads fitted before being soldered to the stretchers
And eventually we got this far.I'm not quite happy with the remains of the motion bracket yet and may fiddle a bit more-note also the age of thge kit shows in slidebars which are not as high up as the should be,partly under the footplate.In my scheme of thing I did not consider the work needed to correct this as time-productive.Its not unusual in W/M kits of this era as the thick running plate casting caused design compromises-the worst case is the DJH Z Atlantic where the top slidebar should be completely hidden beneath the footplate.
Note the little cereal box compartments,used to ensure all components are reassembled in the same location each time-I've found in the past I only need to swap a crankpin over to spend another few hours re-adjusting for smooth running.
The Branchlines motor gearbox combination is excellent and is one I will use again.Next up should be boiler and cab,will keep posting,
Cheers,
Rob
The slidebars and motion bracket both required considerable modification to get them to fit as can be seen here!
One pair are in place,the others are having the crossheads fitted before being soldered to the stretchers
And eventually we got this far.I'm not quite happy with the remains of the motion bracket yet and may fiddle a bit more-note also the age of thge kit shows in slidebars which are not as high up as the should be,partly under the footplate.In my scheme of thing I did not consider the work needed to correct this as time-productive.Its not unusual in W/M kits of this era as the thick running plate casting caused design compromises-the worst case is the DJH Z Atlantic where the top slidebar should be completely hidden beneath the footplate.
Note the little cereal box compartments,used to ensure all components are reassembled in the same location each time-I've found in the past I only need to swap a crankpin over to spend another few hours re-adjusting for smooth running.
The Branchlines motor gearbox combination is excellent and is one I will use again.Next up should be boiler and cab,will keep posting,
Cheers,
Rob
can't wait to see more!-
rob
- GCR D11 4-4-0 'Improved Director'
- Posts: 432
- Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2006 1:19 pm
- Location: Cork Ireland
Managed to get some more done this week,and it was a bit more straightforward as the bigger castings are not a bad fit at all given the age of this kit.
There are actually very few parts left to fit now,the awkward one will be the smokebox door which is too narrow for the opening in the smokebox,with no rebate or lip to support it.Blutack and tack soldering coming up!
Plenty of clearance for the big 14/30 can and so far the impression is of very powerful locos when complete.I have the tender chassis done as well so the next stage should be completeing the basic tender body.Cheers,
Rob
There are actually very few parts left to fit now,the awkward one will be the smokebox door which is too narrow for the opening in the smokebox,with no rebate or lip to support it.Blutack and tack soldering coming up!
Plenty of clearance for the big 14/30 can and so far the impression is of very powerful locos when complete.I have the tender chassis done as well so the next stage should be completeing the basic tender body.Cheers,
Rob