The LNER Encyclopedia

G'day Gents

That's coming along, so unusual to see a goods 0-6-0 in green livery.

I'd like to have a few full GNR livery loco's but the lining has been putting me off, maybe later. When I have the time.

manna

Even for a NER man that is looking lovely well done matey.

Thanks all for the encouragement. The green is Phoenix Precision P50 "LNER Loco Green [Doncaster Shade] (Dull)" out of one of their 50ml tins, not recently bought (maybe 3-5years ago?), two thinned coats sprayed onto the big bits that started out in grey primer, and brushed neat (then gently stippled to eradicate the brush strokes) in two coats over a thin medium green undercoat on the previously white splashers.

Maybe I should leave the coal green, as an environmentalist statement?

Atlantic 3279 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 22, 2021 10:35 am Maybe I should leave the coal green, as an environmentalist statement?

Well, it was green once wasn't it?
Saplings/trees/environmental disaster/floods/ and a bit of plate tectonics are all part of the carbon cycle.
It's just that 65 million years or so is a bit beyond human experience!

For that matter, since trees grow by using photosynthesis, perhaps we should claim that coal fired locomotives are solar powered?

And by-the-bye, a lovely model. I'm full of admiration for clever people who make such progress.
I'm still a bit stuck on my current project - partly owing to a lack of source material for the dates I want!
I feel a compromise coming on.

I like green engines as well, I have an NER T class (LNER Q5) in the kits box. That would be lovely in (saxony) green as well - until 1904 anyway!

Atlantic 3279 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 22, 2021 10:35 am Thanks all for the encouragement. The green is Phoenix Precision P50 "LNER Loco Green [Doncaster Shade] (Dull)" out of one of their 50ml tins, not recently bought (maybe 3-5years ago?), two thinned coats sprayed onto the big bits that started out in grey primer, and brushed neat (then gently stippled to eradicate the brush strokes) in two coats over a thin medium green undercoat on the previously white splashers.

Ah - of course, I think you did say elsewhere you might be using that.

Atlantic 3279 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 22, 2021 10:35 am Maybe I should leave the coal green, as an environmentalist statement?

Ha - carbon-neutral model railways are the Next Big Thing!

drmditch wrote: ↑Mon Nov 22, 2021 12:35 pm

Atlantic 3279 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 22, 2021 10:35 am Maybe I should leave the coal green, as an environmentalist statement?

Well, it was green once wasn't it?
Saplings/trees/environmental disaster/floods/ and a bit of plate tectonics are all part of the carbon cycle.
It's just that 65 million years or so is a bit beyond human experience!

For that matter, since trees grow by using photosynthesis, perhaps we should claim that coal fired locomotives are solar powered?

Yep - Sustainably Sourced Dolphin Friendly Double 00 Guage: my daughter is something of an eco-warrior and I'd love to see her face if I made these suggestions about the green credentials of steam power.
On second thoughts, perhaps not...

Actually, that's one of the nice things about mdoel railways, as opposed to the real thing - of whatever type: we don't need to worry about environmental impact!

I can see I've started something here! Anyway, thanks again, and I'm sure that domelessness aside, this model has plenty of compatibility with those who like the North Eastern: The 174s were, like all of Stirling's engines, simple and effective, Saxony Green isn't miles away from Doncaster Green and is equally suitable for Thunberg eco-coal I'm sure, plus, one of Mr Fletcher's cab styles (when he could be bothered to get his builders to follow his instructions closely) was very much like Mr Stirling's.

I've been inching forward with the livery on the 174. Only slow progress is possible thanks to the complication of four main colours; grass green and dark green upper areas, mostly grass green wheels, brown frames and valances, black running plate, smokebox and tender top, then there are red bits too, plus simulated copper pipes, bright steel and polished brass...
This has made me glad that I spent the time making a modular assembly with a close-enough fit of parts to allow for separate painting and little or no need for glue and joint-filling afterwards. I not only have better access and less need for tricky masking, but I can paint one piece, put it safely aside and immediately paint another part without fear of messing up the bit I've just done. I don't like to think how long this would take if the loco body was all in one piece and / or I was still trying to fit this task around the day job.
The cab, the backhead, the boiler, the running plate and the whistle/safety valves all remain separable at this stage.

Are you removing the moulded Coal ?

Looks lovely !!

Thanks Mick. The moulded coal will be hidden under a dressing of the real sort, also covering the modified plain area adjacent to the tool box. The height of the coal will be no problem once the coal rails are back in place.

Lining will be a challenge too. I may get the most obvious lining onto the green areas first, then have a bit of a rest from the fine fiddly work before trying to line frames, splasher outlines, buffer beams and so on.

Good luck with the lining . HMRS is my answer !!

Atlantic 3279 wrote: ↑Fri Nov 26, 2021 11:39 am ... I don't like to think how long this would take if the loco body was all in one piece and / or I was still trying to fit this task around the day job...

Quite a while, on both counts! I envy your modular construction and will be doing something similar nect time...

However you go about it, I'm sure we'll all be impressed as usual Graeme. I'll echo Mick's comment, it does look lovely.

Paul

Although I can use a bow-pen for single colour lining with reasonable results, there's absolutely no doubt that for the highly visible white-black-white lining of the boiler bands and panels of similar lining on tender sides, HMRS transfers are far finer in appearance, easier and speedy enough to use, as well as durable once over-varnished. I'm less convinced of the benefits of HMRS fine single red lining though, especially when it comes to the line near the lower edge of a valance, or where very short pieces need to be used - it is still far finer, sharper and more even than I can manage with a bow-pen, but I find it to be a long slow job to get the long runs dead straight, and I don't think it adheres firmly enough even when over-varnished. Experience with the all-HMRS lining on my A5 tank engine has revealed how easily parts of the valance lining can be dislodged by handling of the loco, whereas red paint seems to stick firmly.
IF I line the tender frames and loco valances I'll probably try initially to do the best I can with a pen. Some aspects of the edge lining on the green areas may also be candidates for bow-pen work.

I think you're quite right about the ultimately more prototypical appearance of transfers, assuming they're applied straight: very even, narrower lines with quite toned down colours are extremely difficult to achieve and the fact that the best professional painters produce the results they do is quite amazing to me. But I'd also agree that adherence issues can be a concern with transfers and paint scores better there. Difficulties of achieving straight lines are there with both methods, but one advantage of paint is that joins between lines (for instance where straights meet curved corners) can be adjusted after application - using a brush slightly moistened with white spirit - to a surprisingly invisible degree, whereas misalignments between transfer sections can sometimes be troubling.
As others have said though, it'll look terrific whichever method you use and it's already looking superb!

I always use Micro set/Micro sol on the HMRS decals . The single line Red is a real pain ,even then it doesnt like sitting down , probably due to lack of glue due to the thin lines.