Model paints and solvents

[teaky]

With reference back to the OP: do you have a view on what makes eucalyptus oil an effective solvent earlswood?

[Pebbles]

When it comes to solvents why not try Lidl's when it's available.

[earlswood nob]

Afternoon all

I know nothing technical about Eucalyptus oil.

I imagine that it is diluted before sale to the public. The pure essential oil would be too expensive to use as a solvent.

Next guess; it acts as a surfactant to the solvent used to dilute it. This would improve paint flow through the airbrush and also help the minute drops of paint merge when they hit the surface to be painted.

I may be completely wrong. My chemistry knowledge is 40 years out of date and I've forgotten lots of it.

Earlswood nob

[teaky]

OK, thanks Earlswood Nob. I'll file this information away for the time being. The idea of using something significantly less harmful to health is appealing. (Before anyone says it: I realise a key risk is particulates and these are still present, since this is what we are trying to stick to the model, and that eucalyptus oil is still a poison albeit in relatively large volumes.)

[earlswood nob]

Good morning all including Teaky

I found this about eucalyptus oil;

High-cineole eucalyptus oil has a combination of chemical and physical properties that makes it suitable for several solvent applications. It is a good solvent for a wide range of materials
 chemically stable, not deteriorating on storage or heating
 liquid over a wide range of temperatures with a moderate vapour pressure at ambient temperature
 slightly soluble in water and has the ability to steam distil
 relatively safe, with minimal environmental and occupational health implications
 a "familiar" but unexploited product worldwide.

Earlswood nob

[teaky]

Earlswood Nob - More useful information. Thank you.

Kimballthurlow - I would be interested to hear how you get on once you complete your next bit of spray painting.

[52D]

Earlswood Nob - More useful information. Thank you.

Kimballthurlow - I would be interested to hear how you get on once you complete your next bit of spray painting.

I echo Teakys sentiments thank you Earlswood Nob.

[kimballthurlow]

Hi all, and more specifically to 52D, teaky and earlswood nob,

Firstly, thank you for digging up the characteristics list of the eucalyptus oil.

I used to do a lot of spraying with Humbrol (mostly US models), but am unlikely to do so in the coming months.
However, as a result of the feedback here, and the reviews of eucalyptus oil, I am 90% convinced that it would work as a spray thinner.
I will certainly post here if I do get around to spray anything.

The review is correct in its mention of "solubility". I use it a few times a year in very hot water, with towel over head, to assist clearing of sinuses.
It works well, and has as far as i can see and feel, no side effects.
I used to use a chemists mix of pine and menthol extracts, but pharmaceutical giants make no profit out of that, so it has disappeared.

Off topic, and talking about chemists mixes, do you guys who live in the UK know of or remember a product called Moon's Emerald Oil. That was terrific for all sorts of minor cuts etc (I got plenty wandering around in the bush here), but it also has disappeared. It came in a 100-150ml size bottle (4 ounces) was a green colour, viscosity about the same as 60 motor engine oil.

regards
Kimball

[earlswood nob]

Good morning all

Moones Emerald oil is available:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-1930s ... 1610333537

I spotted it a few days ago, but have never seen it in UK

Earlswood nob

[earlswood nob]

Good morning again

Eucalyptus oil is among the oils used by artists to thin oil paints.

Further to my mention of Acrylic Flow Improver;

I have tried it with Tamiya acrylics and it sprays well.

It improves the spraying of Wilko varnishes (teak etc) when added to the de-ionised water that I use for thinning.

As an experiment, I loaded a bow pen with acrylic, which did not draw very thin lines. I then added one drop of the flow improver and the paint ran out of the pen. It allows finer lines to be drawn. I shall carry on experimenting with the bow pen as I'm a complete novice in using one.

Earlswood nob

[2502]

Morning all,recently spotted reference to brushes purchased from range,but ca nt seem to find any trace of them now.We re they removed or is it just because of my advancing senility that I cannot find any trace them,
thanks Ron

[teaky]

This thread perhaps?

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9054&p=89261&hilit=brushes#p89261

[2502]

Many thanks Teaky,excellent.
Ron.

[kimballthurlow]

Hi,
As well as a collection of paints, I also keep a stirring stick for each colour.
That comes in real handy when I am attempting to "match" a colour on something, because each colour is as it comes from the tin.
These sticks are available from any butchers shop (probably for free) or at those $2 shops.
In the event that you cannot source them, you might note in the photo, that the stick to extreme left is cut down from a paddle pop (ice lolly) stick.

Anytime I am looking to stir a paint, I look for the stick by colour.


Some of my paints have not been opened for 20 years.
When I do, they are generally in excellent condition. However I do have to stir them, thin, then stir again, often for 10-15 minutes.
Often I leave for a few days upside down, to dissolve what sediment I have stirred up, and give them more stirring.
You might say it would be cheaper to buy a new tin. Probably, but it lacks the same convenience.

regards
Kimball

[earlswood nob]

Good morning all

I can't match 20 year old paint, but some of my enamels are about 10 years old.

I have a Badger (121) paint stirrer, which whizzes around and breaks up sediment.

I put a few mls of paint in a screw top jar and add thinner, it is then ready (after a stir) for use. I do put labels on the jars and keep a record of the contents, with brief notes about application.

Earlswood nob