GCR locos converted from other kits

[earlswood nob]

Good morning all

My modelling is very slow at the moment due to a few problems with arthritis. However, it is giving me plenty of time to dream and chew over ideas.
Here are some of my latest conversion ideas.

1) I've always liked the B8, and have thought about building a new footplate for the spare Kays B2 that I picked up cheaply. However, while reading Barry Lane's book on L&Y locomotives, I noticed that the LMS Crab boiler was the same diameter as the B8 with a similar firebox. So a possible conversion would be two Crab boilers cut and shut to produce a longer boiler, fitted to an Kays O4 footplate (needs to be lengthened 5mm). This would leave a spare O4 boiler which could be used with my McGowan B4 which hasn't the best of boilers.

2) The SEF N5 could be converted into a F1. Atlantic 3279 mentioned this in a post on RMWeb some time ago. I understand that a rivet overlay is now produced, which would improve the look of the model.

3) A DJH J10 could be converted into a D7. This would require a new footplate & splashers. The one problem would be the tender as the D7 had a smaller version. The DJH D6 (discontinued, rare as hen's teeth, and costs megabucks) has a longer wheelbase so is not viable.

4) The spare firebox end of the Crab boiler from (1) could be joined to a SEF J39 boiler to produce a B6 boiler. A new curved footplate would need to be produced and a new cab from plasticard. The O5 had the same boiler, but I have already made one from a SEF J39 boiler and Kays O4.

5) The B9 superheated rebuild could be produced from a Millholme B5 with a new footplate. I obtained a spare Millhome Q4 as part of a job lot which would do the same with the addition of a new chassis. The Comet Britannia chassis has the correct wheelbase and would fit with a few pieces cut off. The original saturated B9 had a shortened O4 boiler, so would be a simple conversion from an O4.

I will welcome any comments, as they may illustrate pitfalls that I haven't thought of.

Earlswood nob

[jwealleans]

You can get etches for a B9 from Mike Edge.

[earlswood nob]

Thanks JW for the info.

I have see pics of the Michael Edge B9 and it's a beautiful model, but beyond my capabilities at the moment. I have built a brass A1 tender, but that is simple compared to a loco. I need to start with a 0-6-0 or similar, but even Arthur K's 0-6-0s look complicated.

Earlswood nob

[jwealleans]

If you can solder, get hold of Arthur's J73 and have a crack. Mine would almost have held together just folded up and slotted together, the fit was so good.

I'm not sure a loco is more complex than a tender, there are just more bits to attach. Most kits have all the fiddly bits rolled for you these days.

[Pebbles]

Thin wall brass tube is possibly cheaper than chopping up white metal kits for their boilers, although there is an argument where Belpaire fire
boxes are involved. I haven't come across a one-piece white metal boiler that isn't oval, even if this is only slightly.

[manna]

G'day gents

Can't beat a nice bit of conduit or a bicycle pump !!!

manna

[earlswood nob]

Good morning all

Different people have different skills.

I have not found a decent way to make Belpair fireboxes.

I have tried various methods to produce a Belpair firebox from plastic tubing by gluing small tubes or sections of tube to a larger tube and filling the gaps, but nothing seems to get a satisfactory result. I wouldn't have any idea how to make a Belpair box from brass tubing.

When I discovered that SEF will sell parts of kits separately, I utilised this to produce boilers out of white metal.

I prefer using white metal as it gives intrinsic weight.

Earlswood nob

[Pebbles]

Disregarding GWR tapered boilers; how to construct a Belpaire firebox using brass tube.
Telescopic tube; the larger size for the main boiler and the smaller size to provide the foundation for the Belpaire firebox.
Fix the smaller diameter tube firmly into the larger size; preferably by soldering. I should add that there is no need for the inner tube to extend the full length of the fire box.
Take a piece of brass the same thickness as the wall thickness of larger diameter tube and bend to a "U" shape but of course with flat sides and top. This must be a tight fit over what is now the inner tube. Fix in place, again soldering is preferable, and fill the gaps with whatever takes your fancy. This does become slightly more complex when the lower half of the firebox curves inwards.
You can make the bending of the "U" shape easier by making a inner shape from a hard wood. Should you need to anneal use a pencil blow torch, but only along the line of any bend.
A similar technique can of course be used with plastic although constructing an open box section for the Belpaire firebox and filing to shape is possibly simpler.

[James Harrison]

D**n you for starting me thinking about another GC 4-6-0! (Though I suspect in my case it will be a B6). Hornby N2 chassis, with the pony truck removed and the motor switched out for one over the drivers, is pretty close. A B12 or Hall leading bogie. Two Crab boilers suitably hacked about and merged into one. Running plate hacked from a Hall- or can anyone suggest something more suitable?

[Manxman1831]

Would a Hornby B12 be a reasonable starting point for any of the Robinson locos?

[earlswood nob]

Good morning all

Manxman; As I see it the major problem in converting a B12 is that Robinson locos had Belpair Fireboxes, but the Hornby B12 has a roundtop firebox.

JH; I think the B12 boiler could be attached to a Crab firebox to make a B6 boiler (also an O5 which had the same boiler). B6 No 416 had a cab with cut-outs and the other two had side window cabs. The B6 had an unusual spaced wheelbase 6'9+8'6.

Pebbles; Thanks for the methodology. I did try making a Belpair firebox using plasticard wrappers over plastic tubing, but couldn't get both sides equal, as the reverse curves proved difficult.

JW; I have a rough J73 made from a Nucast G5 with shortened bunker, modified splashers, and an etched chassis. A brass kit would make 20% of the total which I think is excessive. However, I think AK makes a J24 kit which would be a useful addition as I could fit a tender cab to make one of the Rosedale engines, which kept their tender cabs when the Rosedale mines closed. When I pluck up the courage I may attempt one.

I think the B8 would make the easiest conversion as it has a flat footplate and inside cylinders and fascinating names. IMHO "Earl Roberts of Kandahar" and "Earl Kitchener of Khartoum" are two of the best names given to locomotives. I may well attempt one after my current project (shhhh it's a L&Y loco).

Earlswood nob

[Pebbles]

Firstly whilst I use it plastic isn't my favourite medium. I do accept that some my find gluing preferable to soldering and that said adhesives are getting better all the time. To put a Belpaire firebox on a old (I trust), Hornby B12; all that is required is to remove the top half of the round top firebox and replace with the plastic open box I previously mentioned. It is a good idea to re-inforce the internal corners as you will wish to impart some shape. Many years ago I looked at making a B12 from a K's Sam Fay; certainly there were similar shapes to the footplates. Maybe - and within modelling licence limitations - it would be possible to do the reverse with an old Hornby B12. However, if a B2 is wanted maybe a few words to Dave at Finecast as he may hold the old K's masters; this kit could produce many additional possibilities for GCR modellers. I'm not sure whether Mr Ascough still has the moulds or masters for his GCR range but again another avenue to pursue.

[earlswood nob]

Thanks Pebbles for the info. I do have three Kays B2 kits picked up cheaply as part of job lots. One to be built as a B2, one as a B3, and one originally planned for a B8, but now possibly a B7.

I have a number of Kays O4 kits that also have been picked up cheaply. I do have a couple of boilers spare from conversions, and I did at one time think about marrying a shortened O4 boiler to a Hornby B12/2 to produce a B12/1, but I have read somewhere that the Hornby B12/3 is underlength.


Earlswood nob

[Hatfield Shed]

D**n you for starting me thinking about another GC 4-6-0! (Though I suspect in my case it will be a B6). Hornby N2 chassis, with the pony truck removed and the motor switched out for one over the drivers, is pretty close. A B12 or Hall leading bogie. Two Crab boilers suitably hacked about and merged into one.

With the V3 now out with a new mechanism, there might be some old V1/V3 mechanisms cheaply available, if the split chassis is acceptable. Shares the coupled wheelbase and driving wheel diameter with the N2, has the extended crankpin on the centre axle for the connecting rod, the motor position will fit as it stands. A D11/2 body with an extension to the boiler splashers and footplate inserted immediately ahead of the firebox would be my top choice for the body.

[earlswood nob]

Afternoon all


That body conversion also sounds suitable for a B2 or even a B3, Hatfield shed.

Earlswood nob