Atso's new loco works - now including my Hadley Wood layout build
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Re: Atso's new loco works
Following a great day out on the Great Central Railway yesterday, I've had a chance to take some cruel close ups of 2911.
Finally, one with the flash turned on to prove that I did fit a crew this time around!
Finally, one with the flash turned on to prove that I did fit a crew this time around!
Steve
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Re: Atso's new loco works
G'Day Gents
Excellent work, certainly gives the impression of a larger scale.
manna
Excellent work, certainly gives the impression of a larger scale.
manna
EDGWARE GN, Steam in the Suburbs.
- nzpaul
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Re: Atso's new loco works
geez...
That's superb work, I wan't to borrow your bow pen, seems to be superior to mine, or maybe its not the pen
Cheers
Paul
That's superb work, I wan't to borrow your bow pen, seems to be superior to mine, or maybe its not the pen
Cheers
Paul
Re: Atso's new loco works
Thank you guys.
Paul, I presently have four rulings pens.
At the bottom is my original pen that Rob Pulham acquired for me several years ago. This was superseded by a pair of Kern pens found on ebay for £11 each. These are far superior to the original pen (which now finds use for painting wheel spokes) although care is required as the blades are a little springy. The V1 was lined using one of the Kern pens.
The bow compass set is from Haff and is my best pen and I fitted a piece of polished brass in place of the point so that I can use an edge of a model as a guide when appropriate. Unfortunately, I don't have a pen grip that will fit it and it is a little cumbersome to use for general ruling but brilliant for offsetting. I'll be getting another one of these when I have the cash!
Paul, I presently have four rulings pens.
At the bottom is my original pen that Rob Pulham acquired for me several years ago. This was superseded by a pair of Kern pens found on ebay for £11 each. These are far superior to the original pen (which now finds use for painting wheel spokes) although care is required as the blades are a little springy. The V1 was lined using one of the Kern pens.
The bow compass set is from Haff and is my best pen and I fitted a piece of polished brass in place of the point so that I can use an edge of a model as a guide when appropriate. Unfortunately, I don't have a pen grip that will fit it and it is a little cumbersome to use for general ruling but brilliant for offsetting. I'll be getting another one of these when I have the cash!
Steve
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Re: Atso's new loco works
I must try to track down one of those Kern pens, they're the ones recomended by Steve Barnfield in his painting and lining book. The one I use most looks very similar to the bottom pen in your pic. Odly enough I also have a bow compass that easily produces the finest lines of my lot. Thanks for revealing your secret weapons, all good stuff to know.
Cheers
Paul
Cheers
Paul
Re: Atso's new loco works
Thank you for showing your very impressive modelling.
Painting and lining are two of the 'new' skills I hope to start learning; so as to stop my brain decaying.
I note your lining pens with great interest.
Painting and lining are two of the 'new' skills I hope to start learning; so as to stop my brain decaying.
I note your lining pens with great interest.
Re: Atso's new loco works
No problem guys, I'm glad the picture of my pens is of use.
Paul, I would try and get hold of a Haff ruling pen over the Kern ones if you can.
A while back I designed a body tub for an A5/2. Unfortunately, I've not bee able to identify a suitable donor chassis with close to the correct 6'6 by 6'6 coupled wheelbase needed. A few days back I rediscovered a stash of old Farish chassis blocks that I obtained some time ago. I recalled that sometime ago Mr King did some crazy work on a Bachmann A1 chassis (4mm scale) to reduce the coupled wheelbase to be suitable for an A2. I therefore decided to see if I could do something similar with the Farish block.
I printed a jig to hold the components (I could've make this up out of plastic to be honest) and cut the chassis (an old A3 one) into three bits, removing c. 2.5mm from each end in the process. I then applied Araldite to the mating surfaces and placed everything in the job for about an hour. After this, I removed the chassis from the jig and placed it on the flattest surface I could find, made adjustments as required and have now left it to cure.
I'll make up another jig to shorten some coupling rods (using solder for these!) and try and fit a 40 tooth 0.2MOD gear to a spare set of 4MT wheels I have - these are slightly underscale for 5'8 drivers but keep the A5/2 in proportion to my K3s, N2s and V1. If all is going well, I'll use a Nigel Lawton 8/16 motor to power the contraption. The bogie and pony (radial truck on the prototype) will be source from some more Farish spares.
Paul, I would try and get hold of a Haff ruling pen over the Kern ones if you can.
A while back I designed a body tub for an A5/2. Unfortunately, I've not bee able to identify a suitable donor chassis with close to the correct 6'6 by 6'6 coupled wheelbase needed. A few days back I rediscovered a stash of old Farish chassis blocks that I obtained some time ago. I recalled that sometime ago Mr King did some crazy work on a Bachmann A1 chassis (4mm scale) to reduce the coupled wheelbase to be suitable for an A2. I therefore decided to see if I could do something similar with the Farish block.
I printed a jig to hold the components (I could've make this up out of plastic to be honest) and cut the chassis (an old A3 one) into three bits, removing c. 2.5mm from each end in the process. I then applied Araldite to the mating surfaces and placed everything in the job for about an hour. After this, I removed the chassis from the jig and placed it on the flattest surface I could find, made adjustments as required and have now left it to cure.
I'll make up another jig to shorten some coupling rods (using solder for these!) and try and fit a 40 tooth 0.2MOD gear to a spare set of 4MT wheels I have - these are slightly underscale for 5'8 drivers but keep the A5/2 in proportion to my K3s, N2s and V1. If all is going well, I'll use a Nigel Lawton 8/16 motor to power the contraption. The bogie and pony (radial truck on the prototype) will be source from some more Farish spares.
Steve
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Re: Atso's new loco works
Hi Steve,
If there's room, it might be worth cutting some shim brass sideplates and bonding those to the spliced parts of the chassis, bridging the joints, increasing the surface area that is bonded, and obliging the chassis parts if they try to separate to shear some of the bonded joints rather than just snap or peel them.
If there's room, it might be worth cutting some shim brass sideplates and bonding those to the spliced parts of the chassis, bridging the joints, increasing the surface area that is bonded, and obliging the chassis parts if they try to separate to shear some of the bonded joints rather than just snap or peel them.
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Re: Atso's new loco works
Thanks Graeme,
I vaguely remember you did that in your article (what month year was it, I'm sure it was in BRM). I think I might be able to get away with using 0.25mm thick nickel silver sheet as N gauge clearances are usually quiet generous. I'll let the current assembly cure properly before I try anything further.
I vaguely remember you did that in your article (what month year was it, I'm sure it was in BRM). I think I might be able to get away with using 0.25mm thick nickel silver sheet as N gauge clearances are usually quiet generous. I'll let the current assembly cure properly before I try anything further.
Steve
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Re: Atso's new loco works
I've just been shocked into feeling even older, having checked my retained copy of that Bongrace to Irish Elephants article, finding that it was published in BRM as long ago as September and October 2007!
I imagine that such an article would be far too complex and risky for the current BRM management to publish, since it clearly is not something that beginners can do, it cannot be achieved simply by opening a box, it doesn't turn an old Tri-ang toy body and an unrelated chassis into an imaginary loco that couldn't have existed because there'd be no room for any cylinders, and the necessary modelling techniques included such dangerous and advanced things as cutting with sharp knives and saws, soldering with a hot soldering iron and acidic flux, spraying solvent-based paint etc......
oh, yes, and none of the "modelling" work was done using a computer nor was any DCC installed in the model.
I imagine that such an article would be far too complex and risky for the current BRM management to publish, since it clearly is not something that beginners can do, it cannot be achieved simply by opening a box, it doesn't turn an old Tri-ang toy body and an unrelated chassis into an imaginary loco that couldn't have existed because there'd be no room for any cylinders, and the necessary modelling techniques included such dangerous and advanced things as cutting with sharp knives and saws, soldering with a hot soldering iron and acidic flux, spraying solvent-based paint etc......
oh, yes, and none of the "modelling" work was done using a computer nor was any DCC installed in the model.
Most subjects, models and techniques covered in this thread are now listed in various categories on page1
Dec. 2018: Almost all images that disappeared from my own thread following loss of free remote hosting are now restored.
Dec. 2018: Almost all images that disappeared from my own thread following loss of free remote hosting are now restored.
Re: Atso's new loco works
Wow was the articles really that long ago!?!
It is a shame that there aren't that many articles of that nature appearing in the general modelling press anymore. Most certainly the A1 to A2 article was impressive and, ten and a half years later, it has inspired me to have a go a hacking a chassis myself!
I see that Tony has written several articles over the last year covering various locomotive builds so 'dangerous' activities aren't completely ignored in the magazines - and a welcome change to the simpler projects.
I can't comment about not using a computer in my modelling! Certainly my scratch building skills in N gauge are nowhere near yours in 4mm! However, I like to think I'm not a slave to my computer, just another useful tool to be able to use.
It is a shame that there aren't that many articles of that nature appearing in the general modelling press anymore. Most certainly the A1 to A2 article was impressive and, ten and a half years later, it has inspired me to have a go a hacking a chassis myself!
I see that Tony has written several articles over the last year covering various locomotive builds so 'dangerous' activities aren't completely ignored in the magazines - and a welcome change to the simpler projects.
I can't comment about not using a computer in my modelling! Certainly my scratch building skills in N gauge are nowhere near yours in 4mm! However, I like to think I'm not a slave to my computer, just another useful tool to be able to use.
Steve
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Re: Atso's new loco works
Think Tony gets by on "grandfather rights" with many of his articles - showing such advanced techniques as levelling a body that is not quite right, or setting up a gearbox. Not sure about the current cut of staffers, though.
Brian
Anything weird or unusual will catch my interest, be it an express or locomotive
I'm also drawn to the commemorative, let's hope Bachmann will produce 6165 Valour.
Anything weird or unusual will catch my interest, be it an express or locomotive
I'm also drawn to the commemorative, let's hope Bachmann will produce 6165 Valour.
Re: Atso's new loco works
I'm out for most of the day but, not wanting to get too involved with a commission, I spent an hour this morning working on the boiler for Great Northern. Main handrails removed along with the vacuum ejector pipe removed which then had the holes filled and made good. Superheater header covers removed (hence the removal of the main handrails) and carefully sanded back flush with the smoke box. Patch painted with satin black for the smoke box and Precision gloss Donny Green mixed equally with matt varnish and thinned with white spirit to make also a wash to better blend it in with the original paint work.
Steve
Re: Atso's new loco works
Things have progressed a little on Great Northern. After a day wrestling with the CAD for a GWR County 4-6-0, I decided to paint the missing lining on to the tender and Cartazzi truck for Great Northern using a bow pen. The front bogie wheels have had a wash of white paint put into their centers. Once dry, I'll carefully paint in a black dot.
I've also painted out the incorrect green on the loco's valance and had to respray inside the tender lining as I'd accidentally removed the paint when I removed the original, too large, lettering. The two pence piece is to give an idea of the scale of the Dapol A3 donor (still retaining its original 'Papyrus' nameplates!).
I've also painted out the incorrect green on the loco's valance and had to respray inside the tender lining as I'd accidentally removed the paint when I removed the original, too large, lettering. The two pence piece is to give an idea of the scale of the Dapol A3 donor (still retaining its original 'Papyrus' nameplates!).
Steve
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Re: Atso's new loco works
I'm glad you put the two pence piece there. It dramatically emphasis's just how stunning these models are in this size and you are modifying them!!
Beautiful.
Beautiful.