Manual Point Switches

[Old_Taoist]

As you know, some things are obvious, some not, when it comes to model building. Many people nowadays use electric point motors. I was going to but have now changed my mind. I want Manual Levers; but can I get them?

It seems that the electric point changers are prone to problems. Some are said to be less reliable than others. Almost all leave some visual anomaly at the side of the Point itself. Especially if you are creating a early era model, you will realise that most Points had a manual lever* beside them. To add realism to your track these should really be included. Nicer still if you can uses them to change the Points.

It is disappointing to find that none of the UK or EU manufacturers, like Peco for example, make a Manual lever. One company in USA, *Caboose Industries, does. How these relate in "scale" I am not sure, but they look as if they might be a bit too large. Not seen one, so can't be sure.

Why oh why is this basic commodity neglected by the European and British model makers? Or, do you fine people know of an alternative without having to have big, ugly oblong boxes or dummy huts mounted beside every Point?

[cctransuk]

Most people mount their point actuators UNDER the baseboard.

Regards,
John Isherwood.

[Hatfield Shed]

And for preference use slow motion motors (Cobalt, Fulgurex, Tortoise to name a few) which are much superior to the Whap! of solenoid point bangers in both operation and long term reliability.

I should think what you are looking for will be available from the specialist suppliers to the finescale sector. Try links from this site:
https://www.scalefour.org/

[Nova]

As you know, some things are obvious, some not, when it comes to model building. Many people nowadays use electric point motors. I was going to but have now changed my mind. I want Manual Levers; but can I get them?

It seems that the electric point changers are prone to problems. Some are said to be less reliable than others. Almost all leave some visual anomaly at the side of the Point itself. Especially if you are creating a early era model, you will realise that most Points had a manual lever* beside them. To add realism to your track these should really be included. Nicer still if you can uses them to change the Points.

It is disappointing to find that none of the UK or EU manufacturers, like Peco for example, make a Manual lever. One company in USA, *Caboose Industries, does. How these relate in "scale" I am not sure, but they look as if they might be a bit too large. Not seen one, so can't be sure.

Why oh why is this basic commodity neglected by the European and British model makers? Or, do you fine people know of an alternative without having to have big, ugly oblong boxes or dummy huts mounted beside every Point?

I'd like to start off by stating that I'm assuming you're referring to OO scale

because at that size, and even in larger scales Like O, it becomes hard, if not impossible to get working point levers a scale size without breaking them every time you brush your sleeve against them, take a look at point levers in relation to a person then look at a OO scale person, which is maybe an inch tall. There's being realistic and then there's being practical.

in real life most point levers were hidden away from view in a signal box, with only the occasional small yard or maybe an industrial site having point-side levers.

however, should you wish to still use mechanical operation, there are mechanical point systems available, specifically the wire-in tube method, it has a number of advantages over electric point motors such as simplisity and a lack of wiring though you are limited by range. A company called Mercontrol does just about everything you need, they even do ground signals to go near a point, though due to previously mentioned practicality issues they are over-scale: http://lytchettmanor.co.uk.websitebuild ... nt-control


take my advice though, if you're going to use the lever frame at least disguise it behind a low-relief signal box

[John Palmer]

I'm not entirely sure whether the OP is advocating correct to scale manual levers for actuation of his points. If so, he might do well to reflect upon the dimensions of some prototype levers, and how flimsy they are when reproduced in a small scale such as 4mm to 1 foot. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index. ... ad-points/ has some nice shots of newly laid prototype pointwork including a couple of ground levers. I'd guess that the shaft is forged to a thickness of no more than 3/4”, with a handle having a diameter of 1”-1.5”. In 4mm: 1' scale that's .010” thickness with a handle diameter of between .0133” and .015”

It's possible to represent such levers cosmetically in 4mm scale, as appears in this photograph of a ground worked lever on our Burnham-on-Sea layout (this is a running line point worked on the ground but released from the box – hence the rodding connection and FPL):

On the model this lever is nothing more substantial than a bit of cold forged brass wire. It's certainly not man enough to be used to work the switch through the agency of a 12” : 1' human finger.

If the OP really wants to try working his switches with scale levers then Roxey Mouldings offer some very nice etched representations of levers that are rather more robust; see: http://www.roxeymouldings.co.uk/categor ... cessories/. I recently installed a Sommerson's lever on the Burnham layout as one was present on the prototype, and very nice it looks too. But it was fiddly to construct, just in cosmetic form, and I wouldn't want to rely on it lasting long as a working point lever in this scale.

[Old_Taoist]

Thank you. Found your picture at last!
I'm going to order some "Ground Throws" from 'Caboose Industries', USA. They'll have to be adapted to fit the N Gauge Setrack 80 Points, but I'm happy to have a go; with my "spade and hammer" hands!

Apparently they are a bit larger than "life" but I'll see how that goes.; I'm going for the 202S Points.

[NickBradshaw]

I actually have some caboose industries point levers and the work very well, but are indeed overscale. One other thing to keep in mind, manual levers look and work very differently in the states, so if looks are important, then this may become an issue for you on a UK based layout, (my layout is a US based one, I still haven't finalised plans for my W&U based model).

If going for n scale track, I wouldn't recommend the 202s levers as they have a different length of throw, the 206s would be better suited. If you're using the standard over-centre springs on peco track, (I assume n gauge has these like the OO equivalents,) you could save a tiny bit by buying rigid levers.

Next time around, I shall be using the 119R levers, taking advantage of the point frog polarity switching, instead of relying on the blades for power transfer.