Hornby Railroad (ex-Margate) teak coaches and S.E.F. flush glazing.

[Dave S]

I am at present experimenting with some cut n shuts of Hornby RR teaks, One thing I'm trying is to mill out the rear of the bodies although It won't achieve much less depth than the SEF flushglaze does.

Only other way is to cut each piece individually and mount from the front..........not going to happen...

[Sylvian Tennant]

Here's my Hornby Railroad coaches.

I used the same painting technique you're thinking about and SE finest flush glazing. It's not perfect but it does the jib. Just be warned though as there may have to be some sight fiddling to get the smaller windows to fit,... that's what I found. Test fit them all too as some of the apertures are different sizes.

[Nova]

Here's my Hornby Railroad coaches.

13490740_1194708637230170_4029371859765892923_o-2.jpg

13517458_1194708763896824_2922072960149586683_o-2.jpg

I used the same painting technique you're thinking about and SE finest flush glazing. It's not perfect but it does the jib. Just be warned though as there may have to be some sight fiddling to get the smaller windows to fit,... that's what I found. Test fit them all too as some of the apertures are different sizes.

those are truly stunning, may I ask how you made the gangways?

[Atlantic 3279]

Here's my Hornby Railroad coaches.

13490740_1194708637230170_4029371859765892923_o-2.jpg

13517458_1194708763896824_2922072960149586683_o-2.jpg

I used the same painting technique you're thinking about and SE finest flush glazing. It's not perfect but it does the jib. Just be warned though as there may have to be some sight fiddling to get the smaller windows to fit,... that's what I found. Test fit them all too as some of the apertures are different sizes.

Those teak examples have scrubbed up a treat!

[Sylvian Tennant]

Thanks guys - these were my last 4mm projects before moving onto 16mm scale (not that I've given up in 4mm- just got the chance to build a garden railway this year, an offer I couldn't refuse!)

the corridor connectors I based mine upon were found here https://highlandmiscellany.com/2015/10/ ... nnections/. I modified the design slightly to include string stays rather use bin liner again at the bottom though.

The only problem with mine is that they don't like curves (even the new 4th radius ones), they tend to ride up or list, so I'm going to come back to that later - I think it must be something to do with the bench of the hooks I employed.

Als I'd invest in some MJT corridor connectors as you can use the brass boards at the ends of you train and the fret as a template for the rubbing plates .

[Nova]

The only problem with mine is that they don't like curves (even the new 4th radius ones), they tend to ride up or list, so I'm going to come back to that later - I think it must be something to do with the bench of the hooks I employed.

I may may try something slightly magnetic behind the rubbing plates so they have some added stability/stick.

Also I'd invest in some MJT corridor connectors as you can use the brass boards at the ends of you train and the fret as a template for the rubbing plates .

i was intending to, the rest of the coach I can deal with, but IMO the solid molded gangways look dreadful

on the subject of MJT. I have a few queries as I may make a project out of the six teaks I have whilst the layout is still in the planning stages. this goes out to anyone reading:

has anyone had any success "superdetailing" the underframe of HRR (hornby railroad) teaks? specifically replacing the bogies and underframe detail (leaving the chassis intact)

were turnbuckle underframes seen in any large number after WW2? I'm planning to improve the Teaks with the MJT 60ft underframe kits. i thought using a mix of turnbuckle and truss rods would add some variety, but the layout I'm planning (Coalby & Marblethorpe) is set post WW2.

are the 60ft kits a match for the railroad teaks. as there were different lengths of corredor stock, Hornby's SD-teaks being 61ft-something.

i have a pretty good idea of the work required to improve the underframe, the bogies are a different matter. MJT seem to do some nice compensated bogies that fit Gresley sides. I'm wondering if they are any good.
given the chassis has quite a sizable "spacer" moulded i wonder what I need to do to the bogie mounting points to allow the correct wheel diameter to be used.

finally can the HRRs be converted into different types than are readily available.


additionally suggestions on any books that have information such as which number series would have which type of underframe would be greatly appreciated.


I understand these will probably work out more expensive than the SD teaks, but it's cost that's spread out plus the satisfaction of knowing that I put the effort into improving what i have rather than simply ordering the super detail coach on line .

[teaky]

http://www.modellers-mecca.co.uk/27-cor ... ategory=27

[mick b]

The Railroad versions are too short. Save your money and aggravation, buy the light years ahead current versions. The Tumblehome is slightly wrong otherwise excellent.

[Dave S]

As Mick says, the RR version is about 5' short and the new one is light years ahead.

The RR versions are still worth a punt if you want them for cut n shuts although you still have to accept deficiancies in them (glazing for eg) For me I'll accept these as they form 8-10 coach rakes viewed from 3+ feet.

[Nova]

The Railroad versions are too short. Save your money and aggravation, buy the light years ahead current versions. The Tumblehome is slightly wrong otherwise excellent.

you have to understand that I already have SIX of the railroad coaches. I would need at least £300-£400 to replace the entire rake. an investment I'm not willing to commit to. I would much rather hone my skills by improving what rolling stock I have to hand.

parts of the underframe on some of the coaches are broken so I need to replace the trusswork anyway

I can concede that the 60ft ones may not fit. would the 51 foot trusses and turnbuckles make a suitable replacement or would they be much too short for the under length coaches. if niether will work I'm willing to use plastruct. there's also the matter of adding details such as vacuum cylinders, brake rigging and dynamo

I've also discovered quite by accident that the hornby super detail bogies work as direct replacements (I have a single sleeping car), you'll still need to use 12.5mm wheels, but it makes for an improvement over the original bogies and has me wondering if etched bogies with gresley sides will work for improving the underframe.

[Sylvian Tennant]

I totally get where you're coming from, hence why I updated mine. It is a lot of work and a little bit of frustration and I would given the alternative chose the more modern stock over railroad. Saying that though, if you are willing to give it a crack here's the thread I put up giving a description of how I went about it. They're pretty brief instructions but if you have any questions just ask

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=7202&start=180#p115325

As for the 51ft they may work but I think the rr teaks are in between sizes. I'm planning on using a RR chassis to make up a Thompson Suburban Comp and it looks to be a cut and shut job from comparing the parts.

Cost wise it probably is comparable to buying a new Hornby per coach but the beauty is you don't have to buy the parts in one go.

[Nova]

Cost wise it probably is comparable to buying a new Hornby per coach but the beauty is you don't have to buy the parts in one go.

That is exactly the reason I'm going with improving the cheap ones.

and as you say in your thread, "I'm not bothered by the inaccurate length of the coaches - they look enough like Teaks to me."

[Sylvian Tennant]

Exactly my friend.

In the end, it's no different from any art form. Some people like Damien Hirst, others like John Constable and Van Gogh. I personally go for pre-Raphaelite, but I digress. My outlook is if it comes off as a decent representation regardless of intricacies or proportion in relations to reality. Basically - if it looks good to you, then that's great!

[Nova]

Basically - if it looks good to you, then that's great!

I live by my dad's advice. He was never into railways that much (though he very much nurtured and encouraged my interest), but he gave me some good advice.

"you'll never know the exact number of blades of grass in the local village green in the summer of 1925 or the exact colour of the ballast on that town's railway line at the time, so don't drive yourself mad trying to get it perfect, because chances are some nugget of information proving your assumptions wrong will pop up not even a week after you've finished the scene. so long as it looks right and captures the spirit of what you are trying to represent then why stress over the tiniest details?"

[mick b]

The Railroad versions are too short. Save your money and aggravation, buy the light years ahead current versions. The Tumblehome is slightly wrong otherwise excellent.

you have to understand that I already have SIX of the railroad coaches. I would need at least £300-£400 to replace the entire rake. an investment I'm not willing to commit to. I would much rather hone my skills by improving what rolling stock I have to hand.

parts of the underframe on some of the coaches are broken so I need to replace the trusswork anyway

I can concede that the 60ft ones may not fit. would the 51 foot trusses and turnbuckles make a suitable replacement or would they be much too short for the under length coaches. if niether will work I'm willing to use plastruct. there's also the matter of adding details such as vacuum cylinders, brake rigging and dynamo

I've also discovered quite by accident that the hornby super detail bogies work as direct replacements (I have a single sleeping car), you'll still need to use 12.5mm wheels, but it makes for an improvement over the original bogies and has me wondering if etched bogies with gresley sides will work for improving the underframe.

Buy secondhand Hornby BR versions and repaint, they go for around £30 or less on ebay. By the time you buy bogies and underframes (which wont fit either too long or too short) plus all the other parts there is hardly any saving in money .The current versions will be the right size and be worth keeping for the future.
Railroad coaches go for pennies , not hard to think why no one wants them.

I cant see the point in spending time and money on the old coaches, which are so basically wrong and will never look like the real thing. Buy one at a time you don't have to buy six at once. Practice on the ones you already have first or sell them.