Hornby Railroad (ex-Margate) teak coaches and S.E.F. flush glazing.

[Nova]

Please bare in mind that I don't realistically have the sort of funds to justify £60 for a single coach, so I'm having to make do with the cheap ones from the railroad range, I am however more than willing to attempt to improve them.

I recently discovered that South Eastern Finecast make flush glazing for the margate teaks and I'm wondering if anyone has any experience using them. I'd always had the assumption that the scale-foot thick windows were needed to help hold the body on to the chassis.

additionally if anyone has any pictures of margate teaks with flush glazing it would be greatly appreciated in giving me an idea of how a coach looks once converted.

PS. visted SEF's site. MY EYES! TOO RED!

[teaky]

I'm not convinced the flush glazing improves these coaches that much.

Take a look at Atlantic's thread to see what he did with some. I'm not suggesting you hack them about so much. Some of the conversions are fairly simple.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2443&start=3165

[Nova]

I'm not convinced the flush glazing improves these coaches that much.

true, but it's better than having the window recesses a scale foot deep, plus as I said the super detail ones aren't an option

[Dave S]

I'm not convinced the flush glazing improves these coaches that much.

true, but it's better than having the window recesses a scale foot deep, plus as I said the super detail ones aren't an option

Give one a try and see how you get on. Only when you see things up close can you sometimes decide.

[teaky]

I'm not convinced the flush glazing improves these coaches that much.

true, but it's better than having the window recesses a scale foot deep, plus as I said the super detail ones aren't an option

For me, the flush glazing can sometimes look a little bulbous. I have used it on some SR CCTs and would do so again on NPCS, but on larger windows I'm not a fan. Dave S' suggestion of trying one for yourself seems sensible since they are only £2.50 and easily removed if you are not happy.

When properly treated the old coaches don't look too bad and Atlantic's versions are great examples of this. In fact, I think that particular train looks great both on his thread and in the flesh running on the Grantham exhibition layout.

I'm not sure why you are repeating the point about the super detail ones being an option? That was clear from your original post and that is precisely why I spent time looking through Atlantic's many posts to identify the point where he started to work on some old, too short Hornby Gresleys.

[Nova]

When properly treated the old coaches don't look too bad and Atlantic's versions are great examples of this. In fact, I think that particular train looks great both on his thread and in the flesh running on the Grantham exhibition layout.

Oh I know, I WAS going to have teaks painted a generic teak brown similar to NPCS until I found the following RMWeb thread
http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index. ... thompsons/



safe to say I'll be trying it out on my current rake at some point and on any of the old Bachmann Thompson stock i can get my hands on. same applies to kits.

[teaky]

I can't remember where I read it but there was a recommendation for the best top coat colour when using the Railroad finish as a base. No doubt you can work this out for yourself by experimentation but since someone has already done it that may be a handy shortcut. It may well have been on Atlantic's thread or on Mike Trice's RMweb thread which you linked to.

[Nova]

I can't remember where I read it but there was a recommendation for the best top coat colour when using the Railroad finish as a base. No doubt you can work this out for yourself by experimentation but since someone has already done it that may be a handy shortcut. It may well have been on Atlantic's thread or on Mike Trice's RMweb thread which you linked to.

G.W. shade: Seraphim Sepia is a good quick fix for improving hornby teaks straight out of the box
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2Y5ntJwM2o

It's not perfect, but it's an improvement over the pale plastic of railroad teaks that I took a step further by sealing in with a decent coat of Humbrol gloss, the one with the golden-brown hue.

it's not the best finish out there, but it's very hard to mess up.

[MikeTrice]

In answer to you original query here is a SEF flushglaze window applied to a Hornby Railroad Coach aperture. In my opinion they could have been deeper still as there is still quite a recess.

[Nova]

In answer to you original query here is a SEF flushglaze window applied to a Hornby Railroad Coach aperture. In my opinion they could have been deeper still as there is still quite a recess.

IMG_0456.JPG

IMG_0458.JPG

IMG_0461.JPG

it's better than nothing and in my opinion somewhat more realistic than the windows being absolutely flush. a little bit of a recess implies it's actually being held in by the wood, rather than seemingly floating in the frame with nothing to stop it popping out at the slightest push.



I can understand flush glazing on Thompson coaches, but the gresley coaches seem to have the windows recessed slightly, a little more subtle I admit, but still noticeable.

[MikeTrice]

I agree that Gresley glazing should be recessed. My comment is that after applying the SEF glazing they are still too recessed compared to your photo:

[Hatfield Shed]

Definitely better with the recessed glazing suggested. The big difference was the easily perceived 'in and out' nature of a wood panelled coach side, as compared to the smooth - near flush - appearance of steel panelled.

[Dave]

Mike,
I've wondered about those glazing inserts, I don't think they are deep enough, glad you tried them.
I've still not tried the Ambis ones I got for the full brake, I must try them and let you know but I think they will be the same as yours.

[Nova]

one admittedly risky solution is to carefully cut away the rear "lip" that stops it coming out any further. then carefully glue it at the correct distance, first with a small blob of PVA to hold it steady, then super glue to permanently fix it.

I may experiment with creating my own flush glazing at some point, see if I can do better. I have a theory involving using the side of a Railroad Gresley Teak as a donor, cover the windows with a sheet of styrene with appropriate thickness "insets" to create a suitable recess. drill small holes in the styrene to allow air to pass through and then pair it up with a vacuformer

[Blink Bonny]

Ay up!

These look pretty good. TBH i"m not quite sure that the flushglaze is needed but if that is what you feel the need to do then go for it.

As for the colour scheme I used cream for a base with Precision Teak for the top coat.