What's a suitable source for replacement side rods to suit the Triang standard 4-6-2 chassis?

[Nova]

I recently obtained one of the triang American 4-6-2 locomotives as a freebee and I intend to fit finer wheels so I can run in on more modern track, with the eventual aim of maybe attempting to detail the bodyshell, it's already got a bufferbeam that's close to falling off so any arguments of value are irrelevant at this point.

so my question is are there any companies that produce etches for side rods to fit the wheelbase of the Triang Chassis?

[drmditch]

Sorry, can't answer your question directly.
Perhaps finding another suitable donor in a dealers boxes somewhere?

Have you thought of making new rods?
The Gibson 'universal' rods are always useful; or you could file them out from NS rail.
It's a good exercise in measurement and accuracy!

One of my earlier 'kit bashed' J27s still runs with rods produced in this way, and I use the Gibson product all the time. If I can make them work (and I am quite a clumsy modeller really) then it should be quite possible for most people.

[Nova]

Have you thought of making new rods?
The Gibson 'universal' rods are always useful; or you could file them out from NS rail.
It's a good exercise in measurement and accuracy!

that was my "plan B" had no responses come through.

[Pebbles]

Well Nova you are a busy bee. I would find it difficult to justify spending any significant amount of money on an old damaged model. However, if that's your intention, I recall there were inserts available to solder into the oversize holes in the existing Triang coupling rods enabling the use of Romford crankpins. Failing the availability of the inserts you could solder in suitable size brass tube.

[Nova]

Well Nova you are a busy bee. I would find it difficult to justify spending any significant amount of money on an old damaged model. However, if that's your intention, I recall there were inserts available to solder into the oversize holes in the existing Triang coupling rods enabling the use of Romford crankpins. Failing the availability of the inserts you could solder in suitable size brass tube.

the way I see it, the older models allow me to develop my skills, I've also got a couple of Triang panniers that I'm planning to super detail and rewheel

[nzpaul]

Don't take this as gospel, but it maybe worth looking into... The chassis of the Triang Hiawatha (I'm guessing that's what you've acquired) might share wheelbase with the Hornby/Triang A3, if that's the case you can use the valve gear and rods from the latest models purchased as spare parts from Peter's spares or the like.
Get hold of some 9/64" axles from scalelink and use their wheels or get some markits wheels and your done.
If the chassis is the same as the old Princess then throw that idea out the window and try Gibson, they make rod kits to suit some of the old chassis ,the wheels and axles should still work out.
Good luck.

Cheers
Paul

[Hatfield Shed]

the way I see it, the older models allow me to develop my skills, I've also got a couple of Triang panniers that I'm planning to super detail and rewheel

If they are all Triang, then the core mechanism is the same in all: XO3 or XO4 motor with direct worm drive onto the centre axle. I would suggest a careful check on the availability of parts to rewheel whichever mechanism is in the best mechanical and running condition. (Once upon a day this was a routine process to obtain a cheap mechanism to drive a kit built body, and thus the parts could be got fairly readily. Not a clue what the availability of the parts is like now, because this is truly a minority sport.)

[Nova]

the way I see it, the older models allow me to develop my skills, I've also got a couple of Triang panniers that I'm planning to super detail and rewheel

If they are all Triang, then the core mechanism is the same in all: XO3 or XO4 motor with direct worm drive onto the centre axle. I would suggest a careful check on the availability of parts to rewheel whichever mechanism is in the best mechanical and running condition. (Once upon a day this was a routine process to obtain a cheap mechanism to drive a kit built body, and thus the parts could be got fairly readily. Not a clue what the availability of the parts is like now, because this is truly a minority sport.)

I've got a Pacific, Pannier and 3F tender engine, all X-04 motors from what I can tell, and a much later Pannier with an enclosed motor (exposed armature) and finer wheels, I suspect from the late 60s/early 70s.


the pacific and 3F are older than the panniers, having a chassis comprised of two plates and sections of solid metal, rather than a solid milled chassis

[DS239]

Don't take this as gospel, but it maybe worth looking into... The chassis of the Triang Hiawatha (I'm guessing that's what you've acquired) might share wheelbase with the Hornby/Triang A3, if that's the case you can use the valve gear and rods from the latest models purchased as spare parts from Peter's spares or the like.

The Tri-ang 'Hiawatha' shared its chassis with that of the ancient Tri-ang 'Princess', ie 26mm + 26mm wheelbase, and so there aren't any modern spares suitable..
So it's either bushing down the original rods, or using the AG universal ones, I think.

[Blink Bonny]

Ay up!

The Hiawatha did indeed use the same chassis as the Princess plus the Britannia, West Country and Baltic tank. This 1st chassis had the motor overhanging the rear axle so was unsuitable for any loco without a rear bogie of some sort. The A3 had a longer wheelbase chassis with drive to an outer axle, enabling it to appear as a 4-6-0 under the Hall and B12. The 2-6-2T used Jinty side rods but very little else, and finally the Jinty chassis was also used under the diesel shunter, Davy Crockett, Pannier, J83, Ivatt 2MT and 3F tender loco. As such, other than the motor and gears there are no common parts between the 2 Pacific chassis.

It will have to be either filing from bullhead rail or the Gibson Universal rods. As for setting these up, the Triang axles were larger than the 1/8 in used by Romford etc. The good news is that Romford still list Converter Axles but these will not help you set up the new rods! Superglue an axle bush into each hole and use some jig axles to set up the new ones. Alternatively, why not clamp the rods in a pair of stout pliers and attack them with a file. The steel is fairly good quality and there is plenty of "meat" on them.

As you correctly point out, these locos are not valuable. They are harder to find than most Triang locos but then there are hardly any folks collecting them! Prices for Hornby Dublo have also seen sanity restored so they are very useful indeed for practising painting and weathering. Plus, being metal, their bodies do not deteriorate when paint is stripped.

I reckon this is how most of us cut our modelling teeth on and by taking the same route you'll not go far wrong.

Happy modelling and please post some pics.

[rowanj]

Another option is 4M126 from Alan Gibson, which is an 8 coupled con rod, with the leading pair the 26 x 26 you need. Beware fitting Romfords to this chassis as I find the flanges on 24mm drivers touch - the original Triang wheels had flangeless centre drivers.
John