has anyone attempted to paint models using oil paints?

[Nova]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BitmaECqO30
I've just watched this video on hand painting aircraft kits using artist's' oil paints and in short I'm blown away. even with airbrushed examples I've never seen paint go on so thinly yet provide so much coverage, and it naturally has the sheen present on real pristine locomotives. the only possible downside is the 4 day drying time.

I'm wondering if anyone in this forum has done something like this and if they could provide pointers as to the paints to use to create well known railway colours such as Garter blue, Darlington green, Doncaster green, LMS Maroon and GWR green.

either way I'm extremely tempted, and if I'm the first I may create posts guiding other modelers on how to create the correct shades.

[Dave S]

I use artists oil paint Burnt Umber (mixed with Liquin) over Volkswagon orange for teak coaches.

This is a Mike Trice method.

[Nova]

I use artists oil paint Burnt Umber (mixed with Liquin) over Volkswagon orange for teak coaches.

This is a Mike Trice method.

I'm aware of that method (though I haven't tried it yet).

what I was asking is whether anyone has painted locomotives and other rolling stock that doesn't have an unpainted-wooden appearance

[Nova]

OK, I've had a quick look on line and I've found a brand by the name of Winsor & Newton that has a few colours which might be close matches to LNER and other pre-grouping colours


looking at their available colours the following seem to be good matches pending further experimentation and elimination

For LNER Garter blue, "Cobalt Turquoise" or "Cobalt Turquoise Light" look to be good matches

for LNER standard green, "Cadmium green pale" looks to be a good match, it even looks close to the colour bachmann uses

for LMS Crimson lake, Cadmium Red or Scarlet Lake look to be good matches.

for GWR and SR green I'll need to experiment.

[nzpaul]

Now that you've done all that homework Nova, time to go and buy the paints and have a go I think. Then you can publish your findings here and let us know how you got on, these sorts of things are of interest to most of us.

Cheers
Paul

[Nova]

Now that you've done all that homework Nova, time to go and buy the paints and have a go I think. Then you can publish your findings here and let us know how you got on, these sorts of things are of interest to most of us.

Cheers
Paul

it's my intention to do that, thought it won't be for a while as the ones in charge of the house said I can't till my shed is done, and when that it I have no idea.

I'll be doing it eventually but if anyone wishes to before then feel free

[manna]

G'day Gents

Before you go and 'possibly' ruin a 100quid loco, go a get yourself a Dapol/Airfix, wagon or loco kit to try your oil paint method, you won't feel so bad if you muck a old or unwanted body.

manna

[Nova]

G'day Gents

Before you go and 'possibly' ruin a 100quid loco, go a get yourself a Dapol/Airfix, wagon or loco kit to try your oil paint method, you won't feel so bad if you muck a old or unwanted body.

manna

looks like a cheap ebay purchase is on the books some time in the future for me.


I actually already have an Airfix Royal scot which I was intending to paint into LMS livery at some point, though needs a new tender, I suspect it'll end up as spares for a replacement Airfix Royal scot, which as tender drive locos go isn't bad.

I still need to get a cheap LNER loco though, if I can find one that's to be painted black, then all the better, a simple livery is better for experimenting with I think

[notascoobie]

G'day Gents

Before you go and 'possibly' ruin a 100quid loco, go a get yourself a Dapol/Airfix, wagon or loco kit to try your oil paint method, you won't feel so bad if you muck a old or unwanted body.

manna

Hi, I've played with artists oil paints and artists acrylics in my quest for a teak finish I like. When experimenting with colours I use strips of plasticard about 1in wide and try various mixes in blocks. Take another piece of plasticard and cut a corresponding oblong hole in it then view one colour at a time in complete isolation. I also use a colour wheel to help me refine colour mixes.

As an aside I found that Liquine seriously reduced the opacity of the oil paint meaning a second coat was necessary. I'm not sure life's long enough!

Regards

Vernon

[mick b]

Looks easy on a single large moulding in the video. You would be very lucky to then put the kit together, without glue and clamping the parts together whilst drying ruining the finish.

I wouldn't consider using for a multi curved Loco body which has to be built before painting , impossible to get in every nook and cranny which a spray can does. Watching the video it has to be brushed out using numerous sweeps to get a decent flat finish.

Viable for flat sided Coaches, I wouldn't consider using for anything else.

[MikeTrice]

As an aside I found that Liquine seriously reduced the opacity of the oil paint meaning a second coat was necessary.

Yes, it is designed to increase transparency.

[Nova]

Looks easy on a single large moulding in the video. You would be very lucky to then put the kit together, without glue and clamping the parts together whilst drying ruining the finish.

I wouldn't consider using for a multi curved Loco body which has to be built before painting , impossible to get in every nook and cranny which a spray can does. Watching the video it has to be brushed out using numerous sweeps to get a decent flat finish.

Viable for flat sided Coaches, I wouldn't consider using for anything else.

I imagine it may work as is for Diesel locos and the A4s as well, so I'll be experimenting with one at some point.

as for "naked" steam engines, I will be doing some experiments, including trying a small flat brush to get into areas such as between the running board and boiler.

if needs be I'll resort to spraying it on with an airbrush, after all, I'll be utilizing oil paints more for their apparent sheen when dry that seems to replicate the sheen of the real thing and the need for only a single thin coat to get complete coverage, rather than simple ease of application with a brush, though that is a bonus.

[Hatfield Shed]

Quite a thought for a white metal kit. Who needs filler and artifice to correct finish defects and slight deformations in the casting? We'll fix it the old master way with impasto. (Could be a slow process getting the kit finished, but then my work on this front is always very protracted.)

[Nova]

Quite a thought for a white metal kit. Who needs filler and artifice to correct finish defects and slight deformations in the casting? We'll fix it the old master way with impasto. (Could be a slow process getting the kit finished, but then my work on this front is always very protracted.)

Whilst I can appreciate the humour (after doing a quick search to find out what Impasto actually is), just because the paint gives a wonderful finish doesn't mean I'm going to be skimping out on prep-work such as filler, and if necessary, a thin layer of matt-grey oil paint to act as a primer of sorts.

how the paint bonds to white metal or brass is still an unknown for me, so I'll probably try to find some cheap white metal to test paint.

can you get raw white metal stock? alas probably not

[Dave S]

I'll be honest and say unless you're after a particular finish such as teak, I wouldn't bother with oils. They take a long time to dry and you'll have to keep any models in a spotlessly clean environment.

If you think of how they are meant to be used in painting it is in thick layers with multiple layers of different shades to get body.