I have to agree with DaveS - why try to reinvent the wheel?
If artists' oil paints were so good for painting models,why would special enamels and acrylics have been developed for that purpose? Artists' oils were around well before model railways, after all.
I can understand your enthusiasm, especially as it would seem that you are currently unable to actually do much in the way of modelling, but you would be well advised not to try to approach everything in too radical a fashion.
There are usually very good reasons why things tend to be done in a particular manner - though innovation is to be encouraged if you have the time and the persistence to go back to square one if necessary.
Regards,
John Isherwood.
has anyone attempted to paint models using oil paints?
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- GER D14 4-4-0 'Claud Hamilton'
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Re: has anyone attempted to paint models using oil paints?
I've taken your advice on board, however I would still like to try and see how it turns out, if it heralds some success even with my limited painting skills then I'll try it further, if not then it's simply a lesson to be learned.
I'd rather experiment and know for sure whether it works or not rather than dismiss it because "no one else has ever used it". for all any of us know it could be an untapped goldmine of potential that others simply haven't thought to explore.
I'd rather experiment and know for sure whether it works or not rather than dismiss it because "no one else has ever used it". for all any of us know it could be an untapped goldmine of potential that others simply haven't thought to explore.
Coalby and Marblethorpe, my vision of an un-nationalised Great Britain in the 50s and 60s: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11905
36C Studeos, kits in 4MM scale: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11947
36C Studeos, kits in 4MM scale: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11947
- notascoobie
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Re: has anyone attempted to paint models using oil paints?
Hi John.cctransuk wrote:I have to agree with DaveS - why try to reinvent the wheel?
If artists' oil paints were so good for painting models,why would special enamels and acrylics have been developed for that purpose? Artists' oils were around well before model railways, after all.
I can understand your enthusiasm, especially as it would seem that you are currently unable to actually do much in the way of modelling, but you would be well advised not to try to approach everything in too radical a fashion.
There are usually very good reasons why things tend to be done in a particular manner - though innovation is to be encouraged if you have the time and the persistence to go back to square one if necessary.
Regards,
John Isherwood.
I'm one of those experimenting with artists' oils and acrylics. I have 2 reasons. Firstly I have been dissatisfied with the various modelling paint approaches to teak finishes. Secondly the quality of Humbrol enamel appears to have dropped over recent years and I'm not impressed by the coverage/consistency of the alternatives. So I've searched for solutions to my concerns.
Moving to artists' colours reduces reliance on paint manufacturers and their ideas on railway company paint colours. The variety of Doncaster grass green shades on models gives some idea. Choosing the medium allows you to select a finish appropriate to your needs, specifically flat or textured. You can then use stable products with the paints to alter their characteristics - ie drying time, body etc. I use a colour wheel to help me get the shades I want. With oils the colour is the same wet and dry whereas acrylic will change.
Where I have got to is that I use artists' acrylics or oils in creating teak finishes. I use enamels where I have decent paint in a colour I like. I use artists acrylics for general painting. And I use enamels for weathering.
Like everything else in our shared hobby, I don't think a "one size fits all" approach is right. People experiment with different materials and practices to get what they want. Look at Atlantic's eforts with resin casting to improve rtr products.
Keep experimenting and keep evolving!
Regards,
Vernon
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- GER D14 4-4-0 'Claud Hamilton'
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Re: has anyone attempted to paint models using oil paints?
Have you painted any locos yet? I'm curious as to what the finished result looks like.notascoobie wrote: I'm one of those experimenting with artists' oils and acrylics. I have 2 reasons. Firstly I have been dissatisfied with the various modelling paint approaches to teak finishes. Secondly the quality of Humbrol enamel appears to have dropped over recent years and I'm not impressed by the coverage/consistency of the alternatives. So I've searched for solutions to my concerns.
also do oil paints work with airbrushes?
Coalby and Marblethorpe, my vision of an un-nationalised Great Britain in the 50s and 60s: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11905
36C Studeos, kits in 4MM scale: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11947
36C Studeos, kits in 4MM scale: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11947
- notascoobie
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Re: has anyone attempted to paint models using oil paints?
Hi Nova.
No I've not tried oil paints on a loco. I'd try acrylics if I was going to use artists' colours, probably with a liquid retarder. I've not tried airbrushing oils because they give a nice flat finish if brushed. My gripe with modellers' enamels is about their brushed finish, they generally airbrush fine.
Not much help I guess!
Regards,
Vernon
No I've not tried oil paints on a loco. I'd try acrylics if I was going to use artists' colours, probably with a liquid retarder. I've not tried airbrushing oils because they give a nice flat finish if brushed. My gripe with modellers' enamels is about their brushed finish, they generally airbrush fine.
Not much help I guess!
Regards,
Vernon
- Robpulham
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Re: has anyone attempted to paint models using oil paints?
In an earlier post someone (Nova?) mentions a 4 day drying time.
I think that may be a little conservative. My wife is an artist and when she paints in oils they take 6 months to dry to the varnishing stage. From what she says paler colours are the worst taking longer to dry.
I accept that there is probably more paint depth and the canvas may well retain some moisture but thought it worth mentioning before someone inadvertently gets a good grip of 4 day old paint and ends up wearing it.
I think that may be a little conservative. My wife is an artist and when she paints in oils they take 6 months to dry to the varnishing stage. From what she says paler colours are the worst taking longer to dry.
I accept that there is probably more paint depth and the canvas may well retain some moisture but thought it worth mentioning before someone inadvertently gets a good grip of 4 day old paint and ends up wearing it.
- notascoobie
- GCR O4 2-8-0 'ROD'
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Re: has anyone attempted to paint models using oil paints?
My experience is that 4 days is about right for a thin flat oil paint application where it's been mixed with Liquine.Robpulham wrote:In an earlier post someone (Nova?) mentions a 4 day drying time.
I think that may be a little conservative. My wife is an artist and when she paints in oils they take 6 months to dry to the varnishing stage. From what she says paler colours are the worst taking longer to dry.
I accept that there is probably more paint depth and the canvas may well retain some moisture but thought it worth mentioning before someone inadvertently gets a good grip of 4 day old paint and ends up wearing it.