The LNER Encyclopedia

Finally, about to paint my Restaurant triplet and as we have a limited range of paint brands available in New Zealand would appreciate any comments on the nearest colour from either the Humbrol or Tamiya range which we can get here. (I also have a bottle of 'Dark Earth' from the Hobby Colour range which looks very close. (I had originally been advised that Railmatch Teak is ideal but unobtainable here).

And (opening up a can of worms now) what is the general consensus acrylic v. oil and satin v. gloss for the best finish)?

I've also had a comment about 'using water based varnish' (gloss) before applying transfers but have not come across this before. Again, is this a product readily available in the UK but maybe not here?

Many thanks.

Graeme Leary

Hi Graeme,

I have used a vallejo water based varnish (model air) and was happy with it vallejo do a large range of paints not sure which is best for teak though. A quick google shows it is available in NZ.

https://www.acornmodels.co.nz/products/ ... -material/

Graeme,

I did a step-by-step on the way I produce my teak finish here. I use mainly Humbrol paints with the odd car aerosol.

For varnishing I use Johnson's Pledge floor polish (what was Klear) which is acrylic and brushes on. I'm sure other gloss or satin varnishes would be just as good.

Good morning all

Wilko do a range of wood coloured varnishes, including teak.

When diluted, they spray quite well, or they can be brush painted.

They are cheap and a can should last forever.

Earlswood nob

Hi Graham.

I tried various methods for teak over the years but a couple of years back I started experimenting with acrylics. Initially I used Vallejo colours but then moved to artists acrylics. The quick drying time was the attraction but that means you have to have everything ready then work fairly quickly. The paint is applied sparingly in the direction of the grain. 2 coats of differing colours are applied and topped off with quick drying teak colour varnish. I then use Klear floor polish to seal it all in with the transfers. I use acrylic medium to thin the paint slightly and to keep it workable.

The method is still evolving but at the moment it's as follows. First a white primer coat. Next I mix yellow ochre with golden ochre approx 60:40, then a coat of raw sienna mixed with burnt sienna 75:25. Then it's teak varnish and finishing.

I hope that helps. Regards, Vernon

Thanks all, gives me plenty of options to work on. Fingers crossed.
Graeme

Graeme,

Look up Mike Trice's posts here and on RMweb too.

All good stuff.

As to 'teak' paint for metal solebars and headstocks etc. That is another subject.

John

Hi Graeme

I would recommend what Jonathan Wealleans has set out in his thread as referenced above. Its very similar to what I do - he uses more colours. I mainly mix my browns using existing Humbrol colours and add orange as well into the brown mix. The important thing is to get variation between panels as you would from wood from different trees. Being in Australia I can generally only get Humbrol paint - I use only oil based paint.

The top photo is a D&S exGN Howlden brass kit I did a couple of years ago. This is unlined and meant to present a coach that has weathered over time but not yet been painted plain brown. The lower photo is a Kirk kit I built back in the 1980s. Both use the same basic painting technic. The Kirk has been varnished with gloss Humbrol varnish. The subtle yellow lining on the Kirk is achieved by scraping the paint off the beading where appropriate as the plastic was yellow coloured.

Andrew Emmett

Andrew I particularly like the Howlden model with all the gas pipe detail on the roof.

John

Thanks John. I have a heap more Howlden stock to build but need to find the time amongst all the other projects!

Next will probably be a twin from two of Frank Davies Dia 134 luggage lavatory composites and then a triplet from 3 of Dan's kits.

Andrew

Again, thanks for the additional posts, all noted.

In our small town we have a newish model shop (hallejulah, one opening, not closing!) and the owner has shown me his technique to do wooden propellers on vintage model aircraft, plus some floor planks he's done for a display - if I can replicate this for the teak coaches I'll be a very happy chappie.

Graeme

Graeme Leary wrote: ↑Fri Feb 09, 2018 11:51 pm plus some floor planks he's done for a display

Graeme,

If the 'floor planks' are in open wagons or mineral wagons, the interiors would not have been painted or varnished at all, just weathered wood.

I do think the railway hobby has something to learn from other genres in respect of weathering, not least military modellers.

Hope to see you soon.

John

As a general point on 'teak' finish, I was speaking to Vernon 'notascoobie' at the Doncaster Show today. He said the effect he was after was rather less weathered, being a GNR period modeller. A more red overall colour, as opposed to slightly duller brown.

We agreed these are very subtle and to a certain degree subjective variations of technique.

John

Just about there but need some advice on the matter of linings on teak coaches.

My restaurant triplet kit will be running with 6-7 Hornby coaches; 3 or 4 from their older R477/9 series, 2 of the R4332 (later I understand) range and the most recent R4530A (the Full brake). Quite different finishes especially between the R477/9 series and the R4530A but I'm working on the basis that in reality the teak will have weathered to various degrees over the years so therefore acceptable.

However, these are all lined (in 'yellow') and I presume the Restaurant triplet is also finished this way but someone once suggested the triplet may not have been and I'm unable to unearth any colour photos of the triplet to be sure myself. However, if they are I have some colour photos I've taken of a restored teak buffet car either at Pickering or possibly Bridgenorth and these show the lining to be quite bright and also no linings on the vertical bands between the word 'Buffet' and 'Car'. I presume the same would apply on the Restaurant cars ie there would not be linings on any 'bands' that crop up between any letters of the words 'Restaurant Car' on the lower horizontal panels.

Thanks again (and looking good so far thanks to many of you).

Graeme

The triplet would certainly be lined, Graeme. You've correctly picked up on the small detail of the unlined beading between the two words of the branding. The only other area where there is some uncertainly is the lining on the vertical beading directly adjacent to windows - some photos show this, some don't and up to now I haven't read or heard any hard and fast guidance on when it should/shouldn't be applied. I don't usually apply it (although I have on the D10C below) but I'd suggest you do whatever matches the rest of your set.



Note that the HMRS lettering is too large and only just fits between the beading in the lower panel.