Quicksilver's Workbench

[Atlantic 3279]

A wedge of plastic will do, much as you suggest. I've always understood it to simply be a step, presumably to assist maintenance staff when clambering about on the roof.

[Dave]

Atlantic you are correct it is a step.

[MikeTrice]

It is a footstep. I use a single layer of thicker styrene filed back as you suggest.

[Atlantic 3279]

That photograph makes the alarm gear on the end of my model coach roofs look worryingly chunky, even though it was all made to match scale drawings and other photographs as closely as I could make it match....

[JASd17]

The alarm gear on Gresley carriages is not as standard as one might like.

John

[MikeTrice]

True.

[Quicksilver95]

Work has now focussed on assembly. The floor has been fitted and the two floor halves joined with plasticard. The roof has then been attached to the body, and some filling of gaps has taken place.

I'm planning to go to Warley this weekend and note that dart castings will be in attendance so will probably try to pick up a few underframe/bogie components when I'm there. Also, to complete the work on the roof, how do folks usually go about replicating the destination board holders? Is there an etch, or is it just built up of card or brass components?

Until next time,

Joshua

[jwealleans]

I make mine using Evergreen strip -20 x 40 thou for the uprights and 10 x 30 for the horizontal lath.

[Quicksilver95]

A few updates since the last post! Nice to see a few folks from this parish at the NEC last weekend! Work on the full brake has progressed swiftly. The detailing of the body has been completed as shown below.

The body was then primed with Halfords filler primer (excuse the terrible photo quality... looks almost white here - I assure you it is very yellow)

Finally I've made a start on teaking the body using the Mike Trice technique. I've had a bit of a trial using the Hornby Margate Gresleys and was pleased with the result. However as a base coat I've been using Windsor and Newton Acrylics, a mix of Cadmium Yellow Deep Hue and Cadmium Orange Hue. This allows a blended variation in panel colour as seen below. The coach has then been varnished. Once this has cured I will proceed with the Oil Paint and Liquin combination.

Until next time!

Joshua

[Quicksilver95]

And the first coat is on! Really pleased with how this has turned out - the photos make it look slightly more orange than it appears in the flesh. I'm considering a second layer of burnt umber and liquin to give a more aged look, but may stick with this "young wood" appearance. What do people think?

Joshua

[manna]

G'Day Gents

Looks Good.

manna

[Dave]

Very good if thats your first attempt, just one very minor point, the door vents would have horizontal graining not vertical.

[MikeTrice]

For an older/darker look I use a slightly different colour combination: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index. ... try3110988

If you intend weathering the coach then I would leave your current teak finish alone. You have made a nice job of the teaking, first attempt or not. Well done.

[Quicksilver95]

Drat! I thought I'd checked all the door ventilators! And of course it had to be the one that got away that appeared on the cruel enlargement!

Thanks for the comments. My eventual aim is to weather but none of my stock currently is - I think I'll leave it like this for the time being as I'm so pleased with it. It's not technically my first go - had a bit of a test on Margate Gresleys - but this is the first kit I've built and painted, so generally feeling fairly happy about how things are going!

Next up, the roof. I don't want to fully weather it (yet) but nor do I want it diamond white - a mildly mucky cream would be my preference here I think - any techniques or products to help me to achieve that?

Thanks in advance,

Joshua

[Dave]

Joshua.
For slightly weathered Roofs I spray with Halfords white primer then use thinned coats
of Vallejo Model Colour 70-862 Black Grey, building up till I get the desired effect I'm looking for.
I use a good wide brush and plenty of clean water or Vallejo thinners as the mood takes me.
Cream I would not use, as the original white lead roof paint darkens with with age due to it's reaction
with pollutants in the air and goes a grey colour. Look at the photo's at the top of this page from Mike
for light weathering. Note that the modern white paint used on roofs now does not contain lead as the farmers
don't like their animals being poisoned for some reason, so does not weather like the paint did in the past.