LNER coach lining

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lu4472ke
LNER J94 0-6-0ST Austerity
Posts: 33
Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2018 8:17 pm

LNER coach lining

Post by lu4472ke » Wed Jan 01, 2020 10:56 pm

Whats the best way of doing LNER coach lining in OO?

nzpaul
GER D14 4-4-0 'Claud Hamilton'
Posts: 338
Joined: Sat Sep 24, 2011 11:48 am
Location: New Zealand

Re: LNER coach lining

Post by nzpaul » Wed Jan 01, 2020 11:53 pm

My preference is to use a bow pen and enamel paint, although I've also found Tamiya acrylic paint works if you don't muck around. You should be able to get hold of a pen from Ebay, alternatively Ali Express have them if you search for "Ruling Pen", only cheap but they do work. If you want a good pen I think Golden Arrow (the resin kit people) advertise them, I haven't pursued that source so I can't comment on what they sell. Maybe someone else will jump in and have other suggestions on where to purchase. Bow pens take a bit of practise and can be temperamental but are much easier than transfers once you have the hang of it.

Cheers
Paul

jwealleans
LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
Posts: 3568
Joined: Wed Oct 25, 2006 8:46 am

Re: LNER coach lining

Post by jwealleans » Thu Jan 02, 2020 6:48 am

It's easier to line beading with a bow pen as you have a physical guide. I use a Bob Moore pen and am happy with the results.

MikeTrice
LNER Thompson B1 4-6-0 'Antelope'
Posts: 622
Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2010 4:45 pm

Re: LNER coach lining

Post by MikeTrice » Thu Jan 02, 2020 10:55 am

As has been stated a bow/ruling pen is my method of choice especially as the raised beading helps the process. Although this is a different type of coach you might find my video of lining the Rails Dynamoemter Car useful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYLDwbD3NfQ

Quicksilver95
LNER N2 0-6-2T
Posts: 74
Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:24 pm
Location: Leicestershire

Re: LNER coach lining

Post by Quicksilver95 » Thu Jan 02, 2020 11:08 am

I also use a bow pen. Would recommend taking plenty of time to practice before using on a coach. Even then, I find a certain amount of clean up can sometimes be necessary with a cocktail stick and some white spirit. Prepare for it to be frustrating but as folks have said, the results are much better than any other method I've seen so far.

Joshua

john coffin
GNR C1 4-4-2
Posts: 768
Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2011 12:24 am

Re: LNER coach lining

Post by john coffin » Thu Jan 02, 2020 2:46 pm

One of the most important things which is not often mentioned, is the need for a proper support for your hand/wrist.

We have all seen the recent programmes about railways in preservation and renewals,where a signwriter uses a long stick with
a cloth ball at one end to allow them to rest their wrist.

In most cases, a lump of 2 x1 planed wood is a decent basis. most houses have a lump of timber lying around that could be used.
It needs to be longer than your basic models, so around 300 mm for most people, then you have much better balance for whatever
instrument you use. The Bow pen in my over 50 year old drafting work is still a pretty capable item. Maybe before you spend lots of
money, go to a car boot sale, or auction and see if you can buy odd lots of bow pens which you can then modify and investigate
to see whether they are the answer to your problem.

In most cases, the biggest problem is the thickness and runniness of the paint being used, as well as the surface on which you are
aiming to paint.

HTH

Paul

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greenglade
GER D14 4-4-0 'Claud Hamilton'
Posts: 359
Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2012 1:59 pm

Re: LNER coach lining

Post by greenglade » Thu Jan 02, 2020 4:00 pm

Just to add to the excellent replies so far. when doing lining of any sort always be sure that the base coat has fully hardened before doing the lining itself. This can take weeks or even months so don't try and do it within a few days. The advantage of a fully hardened basecoat is that if the lining goes wrong (it will do) it's very easy to remove it with a cotton bud dipped in white spirit without affecting the paint below. If a line goes wrong, quickly wipe it as outlined above and let it dry a little before trying again. BTW, I am talking of when using enamels which are very forgiving for this type of work.

Regards

Pete

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