8BA bolts

[Mercator II]

Hi guys

I'm looking at options to fit some Isinglass bogies to my next project, and would like some advice from those of you who are more experienced in these matters

8BA bolts with nuts are the most used from what I can work out, but having a look around, there seems to be many different ones

What is the best length to buy?

Will I need washers too?Is it better to bolt up from under bogie or have bolt down from coach (thus having nut under bogie)?

And who is a good supplier? (Or avoid)

Many thanks in advance

[john coffin]

Whilst I have little experience specifically fitting 8BA, or other bolts to bogies, the basic rule is longer is better and
cheaper, you can always cut back and file down to length after you have fitted them. The first one is the most difficult
to judge.

You will always need bogies between each of the surfaces, especially with the 3d printed bogies, since the plastic needs
support. This means also that you may need to file down the various bosses to get the correct ride height.

As for which way up, it depends on whether or not your rooves come off. Nuts will always come off from the underneath
and will be a b****er to find on the floor or the layout. Bolts being longer are somewhat more easy to find, but of course they
may well knock the vehicle off the track as the fall out, but at least you should notice this.

I would think it is worth buying them about 15 mm long, and cheese head style are probably better.
You will need to consider some kind of retainer item to keep them for as long as possible, for instance
Loctite, or even Clear Nail Varnish, if you can borrow it from she who must be obeyed.

For only one coach, a small pack from for instance Eileens' would be the way to go.
Mind you, I wonder if you need something as big as 8BA, maybe 12 would be just as good with washers being used.

HTH Paul

[SAD Burdett]

Hello mercator,,
https://www.ekpsupplies.com/brass-count ... ted.html#2

I use this guy who delivers extremely quickly and his screws are actually machined as against the cheaper ones which seem to be "rolled" and in my opinion are a bit sloppy.

I have a selection of cheesehead and countersunk and usually order the 1/2" minimum as John says you can always cut the to size,,, and save all the bits you cut off as they can be very useful.

On the same subject Peter Spares are now selling 10BA inserts,,, which have proved very useful,,, when working in white metal you can "sweat" them into the white metal and you instantly have a 10BA screwfix which is ideal if you want the tender body to be removeable from the chassis to ease painting lining etc etc.

Hope it helps.

SAD

[notascoobie]

Hi Brian,

There are plenty of suppliers for nuts and bolts. I generally use the cheapest I can find on ebay.

As to fixing, I would commend you to have the nut under the bogie. It makes it easy to access if you need to remove the bogie . I generally have the threaded bolt running through some brass tube slightly longer than a tight fit so the nut nips onto the brass tube. A spot of the wife's nail varnish will stop the nut from coming off in service.

Good luck with your project.

Vernon

[Mercator II]

Dont suppose you have a pick of that do you?

I have a shelf of projects lined up, starting with a hack bash of a Mailcoach beevertail into a rebuilt variant. This was a gifted part built carriage with missing parts, so seams a good place to start and get my eye back in prior to commencing on other kits

[Mercator II]

Thank Paul, SAD and Vernon

I'll look at those and have a play around

[billbedford]

I've never thought it a good idea to use a screw thread as a bearing surface. A better solution is to make the bogie pivot from a 2mm ID bush with a 10BA or M2 bolt soldered inside.

[Mercator II]

Ordered some to try on my trial project from Eileen's

Nearly got all I need now to proceed

Thanks again all