Hornby W1 10000/60700
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- Dave
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
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Re: Hornby W1 10000/60700
Anyone who plays trains on the floor and posts on line like him and claim to be a supposed expert are a joke and not to be taken seriously.
Hat coat etc.
Hat coat etc.
- nzpaul
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Re: Hornby W1 10000/60700
Ah, the joys of social media, where thoroughly practical thinkers can be brushed aside, or worse, blatantly shouted down by the ever enthusiastic keyboard warrior brimming with expert level knowledge of nothing at all.
Luckily most possessed of actual skill, talent, knowledge or whatever, also have the ability to work out who's worth listening to and who isn't.
In fairness to the model railway forums, the new product section of RMWeb has some contributors who could do with a lesson in how to breathe and keep calm, the workbench and layout topics and Write Writes of course are entertaining and useful.
Paul
Luckily most possessed of actual skill, talent, knowledge or whatever, also have the ability to work out who's worth listening to and who isn't.
In fairness to the model railway forums, the new product section of RMWeb has some contributors who could do with a lesson in how to breathe and keep calm, the workbench and layout topics and Write Writes of course are entertaining and useful.
Paul
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Re: Hornby W1 10000/60700
May I be really cheeky and request that when convenient you take and post another underside photo, this time of the front end from cylinders to leading driver?
Reports are coming in that the cylinders are positioned too far outboard, and thus all of the cylinder casings, valvegear and front steps are significantly overwidth; with the result that line side structure can be fouled.
- Atlantic 3279
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Re: Hornby W1 10000/60700
That's a current topic on RMWeb Wright Writes.
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Re: Hornby W1 10000/60700
It has been mentioned by a couple of people that the W1 front steps hit on some "finescale" platforms . It has also been mentioned by builders of the old Finecast kit that has it the same problem. As did the prototype being very close to the limits as well !!.
It would have been easier for Hornby to have left the steps off, as they normally do , and let the owner decide whether to fit them or not . No idea if they can be removed without causing damage ?. There have been reports of them having fallen off in transit , at a guess they may come off easily.
It would have been easier for Hornby to have left the steps off, as they normally do , and let the owner decide whether to fit them or not . No idea if they can be removed without causing damage ?. There have been reports of them having fallen off in transit , at a guess they may come off easily.
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Re: Hornby W1 10000/60700
I received mine undamaged here in South Australia yesterday.
Today I removed the steps over the valvegear and after removing a very slight bit off the top I refitted them under the footplate about 1.6mm further in than the original position on each side. This enables the loco to clear all my platforms. The overall width is now about 40.6mm.
Andrew
Today I removed the steps over the valvegear and after removing a very slight bit off the top I refitted them under the footplate about 1.6mm further in than the original position on each side. This enables the loco to clear all my platforms. The overall width is now about 40.6mm.
Andrew
- Atlantic 3279
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Re: Hornby W1 10000/60700
Still substantially more than a scale 9' 3" (37mm) maximum for most of the largest UK mainline locos then? Generally narrower limits below platform level too I believe.
Happy New Year.
Happy New Year.
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- Atlantic 3279
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Re: Hornby W1 10000/60700
From prototype photographs it appears to me that the upper part of the structure of the front steps did feature two strips of steel attached to the outer face of the angle iron of the running plate, but those strips were thin (unlike Hornby's plastic representation of them) and certainly did not protrude beyond the edge of the top of the running plate. The upper step itself seems to have been rather shallow, not much of a footing for anybody to dwell on, more of a toe-hold for brief use when climbing up or down, so long as the steps and the climber's boots were free of oil and water. Lower down, clear of the run of the crosshead, the backplate of the steps (still thin, much more so than Hornby's version) was cranked inwards quite sharply to allow a bottom step of decent depth.
I suspect that the way to get close to that form on the model without loss of necessary clearances is to make a new set of steps in thin metal, and to protect then from being crushed inwards by fitting a discreet outward projection from the chassis below crosshead level, butting up against the inner face of the lower part of the step structure.
I suspect that the way to get close to that form on the model without loss of necessary clearances is to make a new set of steps in thin metal, and to protect then from being crushed inwards by fitting a discreet outward projection from the chassis below crosshead level, butting up against the inner face of the lower part of the step structure.
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Re: Hornby W1 10000/60700
Hi Graeme
In a sense what I've done was an experiment to see if the plastic steps can actually be used. The two metal strips should be handrails and at this stage I've left them as mouldings for strength. What I neglected to say was I also took a bit off the depth of each of the steps and re-chamfered the outer faces. I also chamfered the vertical sides of the step backing plates.
As to overall width I suspect the running plate is too wide itself although I haven't measured that specifically - will do later.
I had initially assumed I might need to make up brass replacements. It's worth noting that the U1 has similar steps and these are a week point of the DJH kit, even in brass as you predict.
Happy New Year.
Andrew
In a sense what I've done was an experiment to see if the plastic steps can actually be used. The two metal strips should be handrails and at this stage I've left them as mouldings for strength. What I neglected to say was I also took a bit off the depth of each of the steps and re-chamfered the outer faces. I also chamfered the vertical sides of the step backing plates.
As to overall width I suspect the running plate is too wide itself although I haven't measured that specifically - will do later.
I had initially assumed I might need to make up brass replacements. It's worth noting that the U1 has similar steps and these are a week point of the DJH kit, even in brass as you predict.
Happy New Year.
Andrew
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Re: Hornby W1 10000/60700
Width over running plate is 38.4mm. The cylinders are the same. In photos the cylinders appear to be wider than the running plate. I don't think I have a decent drawing anywhere?
Andrew
Andrew
- NZRedBaron
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Re: Hornby W1 10000/60700
So, by the sounds of it, the 'Hush Hush' model has more than a few quality control problems, yeah?
How about the A4-styled rebuilt version? Is that any better?
How about the A4-styled rebuilt version? Is that any better?
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Re: Hornby W1 10000/60700
NZRedBaron wrote: ↑Sun Jan 02, 2022 12:05 am So, by the sounds of it, the 'Hush Hush' model has more than a few quality control problems, yeah?
How about the A4-styled rebuilt version? Is that any better?
That has not yet appeared. Those of us waiting for that particular version wait with trepidation for the result.
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Re: Hornby W1 10000/60700
Out of curiosity I measured the width over valences of a couple of Hornby A4s. The maximum width was 37mm around the position of the lubricators. Also Cock O' The North measured 35.6mm over cylinders.
Andrew
Andrew
Re: Hornby W1 10000/60700
How easiiy do the Steps come off ?Woodcock29 wrote: ↑Sat Jan 01, 2022 10:19 pm Hi Graeme
In a sense what I've done was an experiment to see if the plastic steps can actually be used. The two metal strips should be handrails and at this stage I've left them as mouldings for strength. What I neglected to say was I also took a bit off the depth of each of the steps and re-chamfered the outer faces. I also chamfered the vertical sides of the step backing plates.
As to overall width I suspect the running plate is too wide itself although I haven't measured that specifically - will do later.
I had initially assumed I might need to make up brass replacements. It's worth noting that the U1 has similar steps and these are a week point of the DJH kit, even in brass as you predict.
Happy New Year.
Andrew
I can see that the steps have a spacer at the rear which is touching the Radius Bar on the Valve Gear. I presume you have made the spacer narrower ?
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Re: Hornby W1 10000/60700
The steps on mine came off very easily. Just a bit wriggling. Part of the piece that goes into a slot in the valence broke off on each but that doesn't matter. Yes I trimmed the spacer back a bit.