K's J3?
Moderators: 52D, Tom F, Rlangham, Atlantic 3279, Blink Bonny, Saint Johnstoun, richard
Re: K's J3?
So how did you overcome the difference in size of the oval cutouts in the tender side frame?
- Atlantic 3279
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
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Re: K's J3?
Now I think about it again I need to make a correction. The 4700 gal frame was a cut and shut. The GN frame profile was cut out by hand and then had resin copy axleboxes added.
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Dec. 2018: Almost all images that disappeared from my own thread following loss of free remote hosting are now restored.
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Re: K's J3?
While I don't hold a torch for K's, I truly doubt that they made a regular practise of renewing the moulds from castings off a previous mould: why would you, when in possession of the patterns from which the first set of moulds were made? Doesn't rule out some occasional 'desperation city' job when an original pattern had been significantly damaged or somehow lost.
A broadly applicable truth to many of the whitemetal kits in the days of yore. The frequently proposed and well meant advice to 'obtain a good drawing', just opened a new can of worms.john coffin wrote: ↑Thu Mar 18, 2021 11:40 am ... a drawing will only confuse even more, since you will find it difficult to reconcile the various differences...
Re: K's J3?
If use of existing casting didn't occur how do you explain the distorted domes and chimneys etc. Moulds from original masters wouldn't have produced these results. I was told this was happening many years ago by someone in the know.Hatfield Shed wrote: ↑Sat Mar 20, 2021 11:28 amWhile I don't hold a torch for K's, I truly doubt that they made a regular practise of renewing the moulds from castings off a previous mould: why would you, when in possession of the patterns from which the first set of moulds were made? Doesn't rule out some occasional 'desperation city' job when an original pattern had been significantly damaged or somehow lost.
A broadly applicable truth to many of the whitemetal kits in the days of yore. The frequently proposed and well meant advice to 'obtain a good drawing', just opened a new can of worms.john coffin wrote: ↑Thu Mar 18, 2021 11:40 am ... a drawing will only confuse even more, since you will find it difficult to reconcile the various differences...
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Re: K's J3?
I wouldn't for a moment deny it happened, there was some very duff output from K's. Thus my earlier posting:
Hatfield Shed wrote: ↑Sat Mar 20, 2021 11:28 am While I don't hold a torch for K's, I truly doubt that they made a regular practise of renewing the moulds from castings off a previous mould: why would you, when in possession of the patterns from which the first set of moulds were made? Doesn't rule out some occasional 'desperation city' job when an original pattern had been significantly damaged or somehow lost.
- manna
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Re: K's J3?
G'Day Gents
Funny you should be talking about the K's J3, I've been 'Playing' with a J3 chassis for the last couple of days, new scale wheels, new motor, and picks ups and I can't get the darn thing to run, it even bent the (k's)coupling rods, coming to the conclusion the axle holes are wonky. This chassis is suppose to be for the J7.
manna
Funny you should be talking about the K's J3, I've been 'Playing' with a J3 chassis for the last couple of days, new scale wheels, new motor, and picks ups and I can't get the darn thing to run, it even bent the (k's)coupling rods, coming to the conclusion the axle holes are wonky. This chassis is suppose to be for the J7.
manna
EDGWARE GN, Steam in the Suburbs.
Re: K's J3?
Manna,
If you have the type of K's axles with the 10BA fixing you can screw Romford crank pins into the ends. As the crank pins will slip into the coupling rod holes you can easily compare the chassis and coupling rods. I hope my explanation is clear.
If you have the type of K's axles with the 10BA fixing you can screw Romford crank pins into the ends. As the crank pins will slip into the coupling rod holes you can easily compare the chassis and coupling rods. I hope my explanation is clear.
- manna
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Re: K's J3?
G'Day Gents
I'm using Hornby sized Romford axles ( big axle) and Scale Link driving wheels, I can't post a picture as I've just changed computers and it won't let me make my pictures smaller, 3.5 meg is far to big. The scale Link drivers are like Romfords but have a plastic center.
manna
I'm using Hornby sized Romford axles ( big axle) and Scale Link driving wheels, I can't post a picture as I've just changed computers and it won't let me make my pictures smaller, 3.5 meg is far to big. The scale Link drivers are like Romfords but have a plastic center.
manna
EDGWARE GN, Steam in the Suburbs.
Re: K's J3?
Right,
Place the chassis over a piece of card but raised a couple of mm. Push the axles through the chassis and tap the ends lightly with a soft mallet. You now have three indentations over which you can place the coupling rod/rods.
Place the chassis over a piece of card but raised a couple of mm. Push the axles through the chassis and tap the ends lightly with a soft mallet. You now have three indentations over which you can place the coupling rod/rods.
- manna
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
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Re: K's J3?
G'Day Gents
Now I know where your going, will let you know.
manna
Now I know where your going, will let you know.
manna
EDGWARE GN, Steam in the Suburbs.