K's J3?

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60526
NBR D34 4-4-0 'Glen'
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Re: K's J3?

Post by 60526 »

So how did you overcome the difference in size of the oval cutouts in the tender side frame?
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Atlantic 3279
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Re: K's J3?

Post by Atlantic 3279 »

Now I think about it again I need to make a correction. The 4700 gal frame was a cut and shut. The GN frame profile was cut out by hand and then had resin copy axleboxes added.
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Hatfield Shed
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Re: K's J3?

Post by Hatfield Shed »

Pebbles wrote: Fri Mar 19, 2021 8:28 am ...Others may know better but, from memory I was told that K's would make replacement moulds from existing castings; not really a good idea as casting vary in size depending on the temperature of the mould...
While I don't hold a torch for K's, I truly doubt that they made a regular practise of renewing the moulds from castings off a previous mould: why would you, when in possession of the patterns from which the first set of moulds were made? Doesn't rule out some occasional 'desperation city' job when an original pattern had been significantly damaged or somehow lost.
john coffin wrote: Thu Mar 18, 2021 11:40 am ... a drawing will only confuse even more, since you will find it difficult to reconcile the various differences...
A broadly applicable truth to many of the whitemetal kits in the days of yore. The frequently proposed and well meant advice to 'obtain a good drawing', just opened a new can of worms.
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Re: K's J3?

Post by Pebbles »

Hatfield Shed wrote: Sat Mar 20, 2021 11:28 am
Pebbles wrote: Fri Mar 19, 2021 8:28 am ...Others may know better but, from memory I was told that K's would make replacement moulds from existing castings; not really a good idea as casting vary in size depending on the temperature of the mould...
While I don't hold a torch for K's, I truly doubt that they made a regular practise of renewing the moulds from castings off a previous mould: why would you, when in possession of the patterns from which the first set of moulds were made? Doesn't rule out some occasional 'desperation city' job when an original pattern had been significantly damaged or somehow lost.
john coffin wrote: Thu Mar 18, 2021 11:40 am ... a drawing will only confuse even more, since you will find it difficult to reconcile the various differences...
A broadly applicable truth to many of the whitemetal kits in the days of yore. The frequently proposed and well meant advice to 'obtain a good drawing', just opened a new can of worms.
If use of existing casting didn't occur how do you explain the distorted domes and chimneys etc. Moulds from original masters wouldn't have produced these results. I was told this was happening many years ago by someone in the know.
Hatfield Shed
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Re: K's J3?

Post by Hatfield Shed »

Pebbles wrote: Sat Mar 20, 2021 7:07 pm If use of existing casting didn't occur how do you explain the distorted domes and chimneys etc. Moulds from original masters wouldn't have produced these results. I was told this was happening many years ago by someone in the know.
I wouldn't for a moment deny it happened, there was some very duff output from K's. Thus my earlier posting:
Hatfield Shed wrote: Sat Mar 20, 2021 11:28 am While I don't hold a torch for K's, I truly doubt that they made a regular practise of renewing the moulds from castings off a previous mould: why would you, when in possession of the patterns from which the first set of moulds were made? Doesn't rule out some occasional 'desperation city' job when an original pattern had been significantly damaged or somehow lost.
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manna
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Re: K's J3?

Post by manna »

G'Day Gents

Funny you should be talking about the K's J3, I've been 'Playing' with a J3 chassis for the last couple of days, new scale wheels, new motor, and picks ups and I can't get the darn thing to run, it even bent the (k's)coupling rods, coming to the conclusion the axle holes are wonky. This chassis is suppose to be for the J7.

manna
EDGWARE GN, Steam in the Suburbs.
Pebbles
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Re: K's J3?

Post by Pebbles »

Manna,

If you have the type of K's axles with the 10BA fixing you can screw Romford crank pins into the ends. As the crank pins will slip into the coupling rod holes you can easily compare the chassis and coupling rods. I hope my explanation is clear.
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manna
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Re: K's J3?

Post by manna »

G'Day Gents

I'm using Hornby sized Romford axles ( big axle) and Scale Link driving wheels, I can't post a picture as I've just changed computers and it won't let me make my pictures smaller, 3.5 meg is far to big. The scale Link drivers are like Romfords but have a plastic center.

manna
EDGWARE GN, Steam in the Suburbs.
Pebbles
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Re: K's J3?

Post by Pebbles »

Right,

Place the chassis over a piece of card but raised a couple of mm. Push the axles through the chassis and tap the ends lightly with a soft mallet. You now have three indentations over which you can place the coupling rod/rods.
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manna
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Re: K's J3?

Post by manna »

G'Day Gents

Now I know where your going, will let you know.

manna
EDGWARE GN, Steam in the Suburbs.
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