N gauge P2 ideas - Now P1, D49 & mystry loco progress

[Atso]

While waiting for some bits to complete to P1, i.e. axle boxes, etc... I've decided to have a play with the D49 concept. I've built a new unmotorised chassis out of some square section brass tube with slots cut for the driving wheels, cylinders, etc. Spare parts used so far are V2 driving wheels (a bit undersize but the closest to 6'8 driving wheels I could get my hands on!), V2 cylinders, valve gear and hangers, Farish 4P coupling rods and a Union Mills bogie (which is highly likely to be replaced with a home spun one in due course). I haven't made a start on the body yet as I would like to get the chassis to the testing stage first - it appears to be free running but I would like to try in under power. Pictures (from my phone) below:

So far I'm quite pleased with my first attempt at a partly scratchbuilt chassis and might revive my C1 project should this prove successful.

[Robpulham]

Looking good Steve. You have more patience than me, I wouldn't know where to start in N gauge. Putting together some of the whitemetal kits for lineside accessories is my limit in N at the moment.

[Atso]

Thanks Rob,

I've got a fretting machine which I bought many years ago which really makes it easier cutting slots, which are level on either side, into the tube. Once that has been done I carefully file the brass to obtain sufficient clearence for the axles, cyclinders, etc, ensuring that all is even on both sides. It really is quite easy with the basic chassis being produced within a couple of hours. While I haven't tested the chassis under power yet (still a lot to do, such as keeper plates and deciding where holes for body attachment will go) it seems to roll freely along a length of track.

With all of my N guage scratchbuild attempts, I work using two trains of thought (no pun intended!) - 1. If it looks right then it is right and 2. if it is too fiddly leave it off as it is probally very small and won't be noticed from normal view distance if it is missing (where as it would stick out like a sore thumb if is will badly made and included!).

As stated before, with the failure to convert two B12s into a C1 I will use this method again for the next attempt as well as to produce a batch of 3 J6's, of which one has been completed but I think I could do a better job (might be a good excercise in casting if I can make a good enough master). If all goes well and the method is proven I might has a go at making a powered chassis for a C12 one day in the far future...

[Atso]

Not sure if I've posted this picture of my converted A4 before - I'll be getting around to lettering/numbering it shortly...

Also i thought I'd post the picture of the 2mm finescale D49 (Hunt) that inspired me to have a go...

D49 Finescale.jpg (13.75 KiB) Viewed 6195 times

[Blink Bonny]

OK - who does those coach sides?

And how do you clean drool out of a keyboard??

[Atso]

The printed coach sides are part of the old Cave'n'dish range which have just been re-released by the Gloucester Model Warehouse http://www.gloucestermodelwarehouse.com/ I'm not sure if they're list on the site yet but if you give them a call they can let you know whats available. There are no complete kits out yet (as far as I am aware) but most of the sides for the range are in stock.

Please note that I have no affiliation with the above model shop other than as a happy customer.

Alternatively try Bill Bedford who posts on these boards from time to time - does some etched coaches (which I haven't tried yet).

I think that the 2mm D49 chassis is definately drool worthy I wish I could take credit for it - see the 2mm website for details on this guys build, its pretty amazing. My own models are miles away from that standard but thank you for the kind words (if indeed that were aimed at me)...

[TonyM]

Hi Guys
Hey where did the Triplet kitset come from they look remarkably like the old CavNdish sides ,I thought that they were long gone.
I would be up for some of them if I could get some.

TonyM

[Atso]

Hi,

Taking a break from the P1 and D49 while I work out various problems and have to revise for my first exam from my diploma. So, I decided to play with an existing model I had and convert it into something differient. Its still early days and there is a lot to do but I thought I'd post a pic - points for guessing what it'll be and what it started life as.... Don't worry I've not forgotten that I'm 'supposed' to finish one project before starting another!

Tony - see my previous post for details on the coach sides.

[wehf100]

M7 chassis?

Whatever it is made from, it does look awfully like a C12 to me...

Will

[Atso]

Yup its a C12 and uses a Dapol M7 as a starting point with modified and lengthed footplate and replacement cab as well as moving the dome forward and removing the safety valves. Other details to change involves modifying the bunker and adding to top part of the frames to the body. The chassis was cut to separate the rear bogie attachment and this has been replaced at the front of the loco - unfortunately, I've had to cut the pickups for the bogie to move it, but I'm sure I'll think of a way to reconnect them later.

[TonyM]

Hi Steve a Happy New Year to you.

I was sure that I had seen a photo of an N A4 with valances and I have found yours again. I have a couple of questions if you would care to answer for me as I am attempting to valance 3 A4s, Silver Link,Dominion of New Zealand and Union of south Africa. How much, if any, of the valve gear did you remove and what did you use to make the valances. I have got Langleys kit and Langleys white metal valances and have tried to make some in card. I am going to fix them with Araldite. I have removed the bits that stick down under the footplate and the cylinders but the valve gear will still foul the valances and I am worried about electrical shorts. I cant quite see on your photo how much has been removed. Hoping for some inspiration.
TonyM

[Atso]

Hi Tony,

The valve gear on the A4 is completely unaltered, however, I did remove the hangers from the running plate and lightly file the sides of the cylinders to reduce their width.

The valances themselves are made from 6 thou nickel silver sheet - I painted the running plate of the A4 and used it as a stamp on some plastic card (the used to make a template) to get the profile of the tops right. These were stuck to the locomotive body using super glue and gently bent outwards to get enough clearance to get the body on to the chassis. I didn't get any problems with shorts but I have primed the inside of the body to be doubly sure (on my K3 kit, I used selotape to isolate the body from the chassis - might work here if you're still concerned.

I too had the Langley valances but thought that once attached the locomotive looked too wide - however, I've seen some very good results using Langley's products.

Hope this helps...

[wehf100]

Atso,

happy new year. I finally found a small cache of loco drawings from older railway mags- amongst them that P1 I think I may have promised ages ago. Do you still need it? Alas I haven't got a chance to scan, but if you would like I would quite quite happily send you the original- it's only a double A4 page- 4mm scale plus detail notes. Drop us a line if you need it

Will