Rob P's 7mm Loco Workbench - LNER 06 from MOK 8F

[Robpulham]

Thanks for the feedback guys. Not a Samaritans job Graeme, I just put it down to experience and it looks like Malcolm may have turned something up.

Do you have any more information on the photo Malcolm or perhaps a higher resolution copy that would allow me to study it in more detail?

Hi Nick,

Thanks for the information on the tender wheels by coincidence I just discovered that they were black this weekend. At least I had a chance to practice lining and of all things to have to repaint them in, black does have to be the easiest.

[Malcolm]

Do you have any more information on the photo Malcolm or perhaps a higher resolution copy that would allow me to study it in more detail?

I'm sorry that is the best resolution I have. However, a couple of years ago the NERA prepared a CDROM for me of some photos I had requested from the W.B. Greenfield collection. I can't show them because of copyright laws, but the photos I have are:

1). 2582 "Sir Hugo". Photo taken from above at Heaton shed on 29th May 1937. The rivets are very clearly shown.
2). Same locomotive. Photo taken from the abovetrack signalbox at Manors, same year on the down Queen of Scots pullman. Very good photo clearly showing rivets.
3). 2599 "Book Law". Again taken looking down from Manors box. Very clear. Rivets can be seen clearly. Good resolution.

If you go to the follwing web page and run through the catalogue, then get in touch with them, I'm sure you can sweetheart them into doing the same for you. Or at least let you have a look.

http://www.nelpg.org.uk/index.php?optio ... &Itemid=14

Hope this helps.

Malcolm

[Robpulham]

Thanks Malcolm.

[Robpulham]

Progress continues albeit I haven't moved the door handrail yet. While preparing the front buffer beam I made the discovery that I had soldered the wrong buffer shanks on the tender :face: :face: Not a problem just a simple unsoldering job, except that I have primed and painted the tender with it's first coat of green
After trying unsuccessfully with my 40 watt iron to loosen them without disturbing the paint too much I steeled myself for using the microflame. Having opened the window, put the extractor on and shut the door to contain the smell of burning paint, I was pleasantly surprised that they came off without any burning of the paint even where the flame had been in direct contact - one in the favour of acrylics

Having soldered them on to the the front buffer beam I added some scale hardware bolts to finish them off.

I have been waiting since early January for some brake cross beams from Ragstone - to be fair Andy Beaton did say they would be a couple of months at the time so after a couple of emails I dropped Andy a note by post enquiring after them last week. Sods law dictates that last night I called at our local model shop to buy a piece of brass strip then got home to an email from Andy saying that despite still waiting for them from the casters he had some he could let me have.
With this in mnd I started looking at the other brake castings that I had already from Ragstone and then realised that the vacuum cylinders wouldn't fit between my frames :headbang: (I await the "they would have fit if you had built it in S7" cry!!!)

I recalled that Cristian had used Ragstone parts on his Finney A3 so I looked up his build thread and sure enough despite being very close together they did fit between the frames. My choices were chop some of the insides leaving them odd shaped or scratch build some smaller diameter ones. I opted for the latter as at least looking right even if they were not prototypical.

[Atlantic 3279]

Very tidy looking work again Rob. Are O gauge vac pipes tough enough to stand the inevitable knocks during the rest of the building process? They tend to be one of the last things that I fit in OO.

[Robpulham]

Thanks Graeme,

Not always I should say but these are quite substantial lost wax castings that have a pin through the buffer beam - so far so good as they say.
I have managed to complete all the pipe work for the oilers so I should be posting some updates later in the day. I do hope to have all the boiler and footplate complete today fingers crossed (a couple of days off so I want to make the most of them).

[Robpulham]

After a few days of getting around to it (putting it off!!). This morning I finally got stuck in and finished all the pipework around the smoke box and reseated the whistle so the cab sat down OK. so until someone points out anything that I have missed that's it for the body work. Just waiting for the brake bits from Ragstone to sort the chassis.

[Atlantic 3279]

You've probably checked the evidence and will therefore be more certain of the answer than I am, but I have a nagging doubt on the matter of whether anti-carbonisers and associated pipework were present on both sides of the smokebox, or just one.

Very nice job again, either way.

[Blink Bonny]

Rob, I take my hat off to you - excellent work!

As an aside, I use Romford vac pipes on my 00 tiddlers. They're fine copper wire wrapped round a piece of brass rod. A tad overscale methinks for 4mm but very robust, much more so than even Comet's lost wax brass ones. They're very amenable to re-shaping so these days I add vac pipes as soon as the buffers and coupling hook are on.

They may be a little undernourished for 7mm but worth a look?

[Robpulham]

You've probably checked the evidence and will therefore be more certain of the answer than I am, but I have a nagging doubt on the matter of whether anti-carbonisers and associated pipework were present on both sides of the smokebox, or just one.

Very nice job again, either way.

Hi Graham, Thanks for the thought. As always I am willing to be corrected but the photos I worked from had the pipework at either side, albeit that the DJH instructions had to small valve with the hand wheel on the wrong side (I suspect it's a throwback to their A1 instructions before they changed to left hand drive). Admittedly I didn't have both side views of Papyrus dated at the same time.

[Robpulham]

Rob, I take my hat off to you - excellent work!

As an aside, I use Romford vac pipes on my 00 tiddlers. They're fine copper wire wrapped round a piece of brass rod. A tad overscale methinks for 4mm but very robust, much more so than even Comet's lost wax brass ones. They're very amenable to re-shaping so these days I add vac pipes as soon as the buffers and coupling hook are on.

They may be a little undernourished for 7mm but worth a look?

Hi BB, I replied this last night but for some reason it has disappeared? It may have something to do with the fact that despite trying three different browsers as soon as I log in all the standard forum formatting and view disappears leaving me a with a basic text view.

Anyway back to the post, I have used Romfords in the past in 4mm. I have also replicated them both by winding fine wire around thicker wire and using guitar strings soldered to tube both look quite effective. In this instance the pipes are rather nice lost wax castings that came with the kit. I have to add that despite some criticisms of DJH, their L/W castings are excellent and much nicer than the stuff supplied in their 4mm kits in my albeit limited experience.

[Robpulham]

While waiting for the bits for the chassis I made a start on the next one which is to be an LNER 06 built from an MOK 8F kit.

The first sheet of etches (the gaps are where have taken out the compensation beams and horn guides)

The compensation beams and horn guides assembled to date - they still need cleaning up.

[Atso]

Looks very good Rob! You're a lucky man to be able to model in O gauge!

[Robpulham]

Thanks Steve,

I know what you mean. I must admit that I am very fortunate that Chris, my good lady takes a very active interest and encourages me - Both the A3 and the 06 were gifts from Chris. I don't suppose that she can complain too much as She started me down the road of 7mm by buying the first one. It's a slippery slope and I admire Richard and Will who model/have modelled in N as well as 7mm at the same time, I think I would struggle with so much difference in size.

[Robpulham]

A bit more done. The compensation beams are in place along with the horn guides. The horn guides are held in place by another set of tabs (the ones that protrude from the base plate on the previous photo's) and there were half etched locating points on the frames to locate the mini bearings.

Since these were taken I have soldered the horn guides and cleaned them up.