My Q&D N gauge desktop, J50, J6, etc.

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PGBerrie
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Re: Graham Hughes J50 - Q&D workbench

Post by PGBerrie » Sun Jan 22, 2012 9:31 pm

Finally got around to finishing the J50 today by glazing the cab windows, and adding vacuum pipes, a whistle and lamp. I dusted it down with artist's chalk to add a bit of grime. I made a mistake when I sprayed the matt varnish to fix the transfers - the can was almost empty, so I got a blotchy finish - a second spraying did not help. I should really have started again, but did not have the heart to strip off the paint again. Perhaps some other day. To the naked eye it looks OK, but the photographs tell another tale.
J50 weathered.jpg
Weathered J50
So that's the first of my new year's resolutions fulfilled. Now for the J6.
Peter
Last edited by PGBerrie on Sat Jul 07, 2012 3:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Graham Hughes J50 - Assembly Instructions

Post by Blink Bonny » Tue Jan 24, 2012 2:20 pm

Ay up!

Well done - it feels like a J50.

Look forward to the J6.
If I ain't here, I'm in Bilston, scoffing decent chips at last!!!!

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Re: Graham Hughes J50 - Assembly Instructions

Post by PGBerrie » Tue May 08, 2012 6:17 pm

Thought that I would update on the J6 as it is nearing completion. I added the handrails and various bits and pieces, primed it and sprayed satin black, which turned out to have lost the satin. The finish also leaves a lot to wish for - perhaps the primer was too course. I then spent a couple of hours chasing bits of transfer around my desk as I added the cabside numbers one by one. On the positive side, I now have the engine pictured at Ardsley on Page 3 of Railway Memories No. 6, Ardsley, Wakefield & Normanton.
Ivatt J6 body.JPG
This weekend I added phosphor-bronze pickups to the rear tender wheels, which should improve running.
Ivatt J9 tender pickup.JPG
Next job is respray with clear matt acrylic and to produce a shorter drawbar.

Peter
PS: Can anyone tell me how I can alter the title of the thread?

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Re: Graham Hughes J50 - Assembly Instructions

Post by manna » Tue May 08, 2012 9:41 pm

G'Day Gents

Both engines looking great, going to build a J6 myself this year (been saying that for a while)

To change the heading, go to the very first page of this thread, click on 'EDIT' then you can change the title.

manna
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Re: Graham Hughes J50 - Assembly Instructions

Post by Hatfield Shed » Wed May 09, 2012 11:24 am

A veritable Knick Knack. Only saw them at the very end of their working lives, and 'finish' is not what comes to mind. Rolling heap of filth more like, but a very characterful loco. In all essentials of the locomotive one did get preserved of course, as the N2 is basically the 5'8" wheeled equivalent as a tank loco...

My Dad was quite fascinated by the UK railway scene when he came to the UK. As seen from The Netherlands the UK's railways seemed very exciting and up to date. Once he was living here he saw all the ancient stuff still in service, 'lightly garnished' with the more modern equipment publicised abroad. He used to enjoy asking footplate crew the date their locomotive was built, and was once very amused by the reply "Before me grandad was walking mate!". (I think that was Hitchin's J15.)

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Re: Graham Hughes J50 - Assembly Instructions

Post by Atso » Fri May 11, 2012 12:19 pm

Love the J6 there! I wish I could've got my hands on one - another 3D printed model coming on mesthinks...
Steve
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Re: My Q&D N gauge desktop, J50, J6, etc.

Post by PGBerrie » Tue Jul 03, 2012 9:01 pm

Thanks Manna, mission accomplished.
The J6 got put aside when I saw BB's Highfits, just as I was starting the N Gauge Society kit of the same. They now look like this:
LNER and LMS Highfits N Gauge Society.jpg
LNER unfitted and LMS fitted Highfit
The kits comes with two Peco chassis, but the LMS moulding has buffer beams on the end pieces. I decided to cut the chassis rather than the end pieces as I had four brass buffers (not supplied). I also cut the coupling pockets off in order to fit D&G couplings. I decided that the LNER wagon would be unfitted, although I read later that few were. This meant cutting off one set of brakes at each side. Building was straight forward and the paint job was done over a bauxite acrylic primer, which I found flaked off after the gray coating was applied. The vacuum pipes are missing on the LMS wagon. I see that the Farish 13T open has them, so maybe they will be available as spares sometime. The D&G couplings are stuck on with impact adhesive - superglue is not recommended because it cannot withstand high shear forces. There is nowhere to put lead under the chassis, so it will have to be in the load. One load has to be pit props, and the other probably one or two packing cases. When reading the 4 mm Wagon Part 1 by Geoff Kent, I noticed a that the LNER version sometimes had wooden doors. A good reason to buy another set.
9ft 7-Plank Open Peco.jpg
Two coal wagons
These are two 7-plank wagons with 9ft chassis built from the Peco kit. Nothing much to say except that the stanchions at the non-door ends might need a little filing down on the inside if the wagon body is to fit properly on the chassis. As you can see one isn't quite right. Painting in Revell acrylics with judicious use of a fibre-glass pen, cocktail sticks and pointy object to make the replacement planks look plank shaped. I now need to find some transfers.

Peter

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Re: My Q&D N gauge desktop, J50, J6, etc.

Post by PGBerrie » Sat Jul 07, 2012 4:26 pm

I was working on a new drawbar for the J6 today: there is so much room in the coupling pocket where it should fit that it just droops and won't engage with the pin in the tender. Packing has not helped, so I decided to build up the height with solder then file it to size. Mission successful (Q&D), but then I ran into a more serious problem.

The worm does not always engage with the gear on the middle wheel. I had everything running properly, but when I inserted the chassis into the body, and screwed everything up tight, the worm disengaged. I also noticed that the chassis rocks about the middle wheel. I'm not sure whether this is because the gear wheel is riding on the worm or because the bearings are too shallow. What I cannot understand is why the worm disengages, there seems to be enough space for the wheels and connecting rods. Anyway, when other models have caught on the body or footsteps, the motor has always stopped.

Peter

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Re: My Q&D N gauge desktop, J50, J6, etc.

Post by Blink Bonny » Sat Jul 07, 2012 10:08 pm

Ay up, Peter!

Your problem is chassis wear, a common problem. The only solution would be a new chassis, although I'm not too happy with the quality of the Chinese stuff I get in for repair. They will need the paint removing from underneath where the motor cradle sits on the chassis, otherwise you new chassis will last a couple of years.

Your old, Poole?, chassis will have run for approx 1,000 REAL miles to get into the condition it is now, with no attention other than a drop of oil now and then!
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Re: My Q&D N gauge desktop, J50, J6, etc.

Post by PGBerrie » Sun Jul 08, 2012 9:58 am

Thanks for the suggestion BB, but it must be something else. The chassis has not been used apart from the occasional check to see whether it runs. I just noticed that there is about 1/2 mm daylight between the base and the keeper plate at the back. I wonder whether the frequent assembling and disassembling of the keeper plate might have bent it.

Peter

PS: I just noticed I can turn the wheels and the gear wheel does not move! Any ideas on how I can fix this?

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Re: My Q&D N gauge desktop, J50, J6, etc.

Post by Manxman1831 » Sun Jul 08, 2012 10:58 am

If there is a grub screw on the gear it may be worth filing a small flat on the axle for this to 'sit' on when tightened; OR if the gear is push-fit onto the axle, a small drop of the dreaded superglue might be in order.

However, check the gear for any cracking first. As I've found with a certain Japanese-made range of motor bogies, the small gears are extremely stressed on the axle, and have a tendency to crack, or shatter, under heavy loading. Only option at that stage is replacement of the gear.

Hope this helps.
Brian

Anything weird or unusual will catch my interest, be it an express or locomotive

I'm also drawn to the commemorative, let's hope Bachmann will produce 6165 Valour.

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Re: My Q&D N gauge desktop, J50, J6, etc.

Post by Atso » Sun Jul 08, 2012 1:17 pm

Hi,

I'm not sure about the keeper plate as the weight of the loco should keep the gear more or less in position with the worm (be careful tightening it too far as the old style Farish locos don't like this too much!).

More likely is the plastic retainer plate that holds the motor to the chassis is misaligned. With the older Farish models the magnets are external and the pointed bit a the bottom hugs the chassis block. If you've removed the nut and bolt that provides the electrical connection between one side of the pick ups and the motor it is possible that the front end of the motor/worm assembly is been dislodged and is sitting anything up to 1mm above the gear.

Can you post some pictures of the chassis?
Steve
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Re: My Q&D N gauge desktop, J50, J6, etc.

Post by Blink Bonny » Sun Jul 08, 2012 3:41 pm

Ay up!

As regards the gear moving on the axle, this co9uld be because the gear wheel has cracked, a common problem with late Poole locos. A replacement wheel set may be available from Bachmann, failing that the gears certainly are and fitting them isn't the drama you may think. If its just loose then some liquid superglue or Loctite retainer would work.

I've not found a distorted baseplate but it may be worth while checking for "klingons" on the base of the chassis and top of the baseplate. Have you anything adhering to the copper brush retainer? Also make sure there's nothing under the front of the motor cradle or worm wheel which may well cause this. Is the front motor bearing in place? They have a rounded top and, if they're flat side up, this could cause yer problems.

Any probs, feel free to PM me, with piccies if possible.
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Re: My Q&D N gauge desktop, J50, J6, etc.

Post by PGBerrie » Sun Jul 08, 2012 5:58 pm

Thanks BB and Atso for your help. I took everything apart this afternoon and also tried to take pictures with my mobile, but they were useless. The 1119 chassis I am using is a Poole manufactured one, with 5-pole motor. I checked that it sits right - everything is OK. There is a bit of horizontal play in the motor shaft but I imagine this is normal. Without the keeper plate, the gear engages with the worm and is tight enough to move the wheels. However it can be rotated alone and can be moved to the side. The good news is that there is no wheel rock when the keeper plate is removed.

So it looks like a spot of glue, but what kind? I intend to move the gear wheel to the side then centre it after applying the glue, so the instant superglue I have is probably not right. Which type of Loctite would give a good plastic/metal bond and leave me time to test and adjust if necessary?

Peter

PS: I checked the gear with a magnifying glass, it seems to be OK.

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Re: My Q&D N gauge desktop, J50, J6, etc.

Post by Manxman1831 » Sun Jul 08, 2012 6:10 pm

If you are quick enough, ordinary Loctite should do the job; otherwise, I'm sure others might suggest something like Zap with a two-part application (if you have any to hand)?
Brian

Anything weird or unusual will catch my interest, be it an express or locomotive

I'm also drawn to the commemorative, let's hope Bachmann will produce 6165 Valour.

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