Edgware GN. What next.

[Blink Bonny]

Ay up!

That's coming along nicely. Good on yer!

[Horsetan]

First time I've seen Edgware modelled in any form.

I live near the former GN line past Mill Hill East, and have long been interested in the course of the old formation. Unfortunately quite a bit of it has succumbed to property development, not least at:

- Mill Hill East (house encroaches onto formation at end of Northern Line overrun);
- east of what is now Copthall (occupied first by Laing Developments offices, and now by new housing estate, plus even more housing),
- Mill Hill (The Hale - new apartment block now occupies station site and partially blocks old line)
- Edgware (given over to Premier House office block and car park for shopping centre)

Sad, but that's progress.

[manna]

G'Day Gents

Your correct there horsetan, I've never see a model of Edgware either, which kind of drew me to it, plus the fact that you could have a single line branch in the country, only 10 miles from central London, with all my favorite GN locos.

The other thing that I liked about the Edgware branch is, at weekends, the normal suburban coaches were withdrawn for servicing and mainline stock was used, which is great for us modellers, seeing that there's a lot more mainline stock about than suburban (although that's about to change,)

manna

[manna]

G'day Gents

Another small update, the J3 is taking shape, body painted and numbered, chassis, glued, screwed, painted, and running, I have put the two parts together, and had it running......but the cranks, hit the under side of the body, so it looks like I'm about to spend a few boring days, grinding it all out, but I will admit it 'looks' alright

It's taken me longer to get to this far, as I've been mucking about with a class 26 and a class 46 diesels, nearly finished with them two, but I do like a bit of variety, I usually have a couple of things on the go at once

manna

[strang steel]

That J3 looks good to me manna.

Well done, you are inspiring me to have yet another go at a simple 0-6-0 type, maybe a J6 or J11.

[Atlantic 3279]

Its a nice looking result, and if I remember correctly from doin one myself, satisfyingly simple in most respects, maybe with the exception of the tender: I remember struggling to decide whether the top, the front, or the rear of the tank should be used to space the sides out to the "correct" width - they were all different! I probably got the width wrong in the end.

After having the problem of rods knocking on the underside of the running plate in most of the first few whitemetal kits that I built, I saw the wisdom of routinely erecting and wheeling up the chassis first, and then making sure that the running plate would fit at the right height and clear the rods before adding any of the superstructure to the running plate - it is usually much easier to get at any metal that you need to remove when the plate is still bare.

[Blink Bonny]

Ay up!

That looks excellent, Manna! I've got me name down on a 4F or two on our club stand - the Mr Muscle is waiting.

They're glued together.

[strang steel]

I presume that NuCast are still turning out their kits?

Or am I years out of date?

[Horsetan]

I presume that NuCast are still turning out their kits?

Or am I years out of date?

Nu-Cast / K's were being made under Autocom's ownership. Formerly based in Andover, before moving to Worcestershire, I think.

I think the man behind it is retiring, so that's another brand which will no doubt disappear.

[manna]

G'Day Gents

Well that turned out OK,

Atlantic, I'll do that , chassis first..........actually only my second kit, the first was a Wills K3 on a TRI-ANG chassis in 1970, not bad 41 years between kits

BB...... 'There glued together'...............so's this one, easy eh! I don't have a lot of luck soldering white metal, OK with brass, tried it with this one, nearly lost a step !! I'll stick with super glue and car body filler, ??

SS.......You can never have enough 0-6-0's

manna

[jwealleans]

God job, Manna. Don't leave it another 41 years, though. And no, you can never have too many 0-6-0s.

[Blink Bonny]

Ay up, Manna!

Soldering white metal's easy! If it was hard, I wouldn't be able to do it!

Use 70 deg solder, a low wattage iron, lots of flux - AND DON'T LINGER! Like the SAS, the iron should be in and out before anyone knows its there. If you've any scrap white metal sprues or anything left over, have a go. A temperature controlled iron will help but is not essential. I've tried one but learned using a 12 Watt Antex mains unit.

Once you get more used to it you can solder with 188 but not recommended for a beginner.

[Atlantic 3279]

188! Blimey!!!

I once put much of a Little Engines whitemetal J11 together, wondering why I was having to turn up the heat so much on my adjustable iron, why I wasn't getting the usual easy flow of solder, why I was having to hold things and apply heat until it got very uncomfortable, why I was having to clean up the bit so often, and why the surplus solder was so damned hard to clean off - the the penny dropped, I'd picked up my 140C solder instead of the 70C lowmelt. I can't imagine what trouble 188 would give. Not much chance of flowing that neatly into gaps in joints and wiping it over with the hot iron to get a finish that needs little filing - the casting would be gone, and you'd be looking for some of IAK's burn-eze. (No mention of buns this time........)

[Blink Bonny]

Doh!!!! I meant 145!

I'll go and stand in the corner, shall I?

Once, in a Yorkshire model shop that will remain nameless, I was told that the number meant nothing - all solder was the same and it was just a price code.

Hmm. A white metal kit with 210? Nurse!! The screens!!

Mrs BB says: This was the same model shop where the shop boy (who thought he was the Manager! ) was exceedingly rude to me because

a) I am a lawyer

b) I am female

c) I therefore know nothing about model railways. Apart from the fact that I buy and sell him on NG he seemed to find it strange that I took our custom elsewhere.

Moral: Never cross Mrs BB. Even his wallet knows that!!!

[manna]

G'Day Gents


I found the problem....I've been trying to use 145 degree's low melt solder, been having the same problem as Graeme, I'll see if I can find some 70 degree solder, (next time I'm in Adelaide, could be weeks !!)

manna