The LNER Encyclopedia

Another stinging eyes victim here. Luckily only seems to last a couple of hours up until now.


Edit to add:
From Wiki - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate

The fumes from cyanoacrylate are a vaporized form of the cyanoacrylate monomer that irritate the sensitive mucous membranes of the respiratory tract (i.e., eyes, nose, throat, and lungs). They are immediately polymerized by the moisture in the membranes and become inert. These risks can be minimized by using cyanoacrylate in well-ventilated areas. About 5% of the population can become sensitized to cyanoacrylate fumes after repeated exposure, resulting in flu-like symptoms.[27] Cyanoacrylate may also be a skin irritant, causing an allergic skin reaction. The American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH) assign a threshold limit value exposure limit of 200 parts per billion. On rare occasions, inhalation may trigger asthma. There is no singular measurement of toxicity for all cyanoacrylate adhesives because of the large number of adhesives that contain various cyanoacrylate formulations.

G'Day Gents

That, seems to nail it, Thank you Exile, mine does seem to be better by having the window open and the fan going, Mind you, it doesn't help having Emphysema. It would seem I'm going be a lot more careful in the future.

Thank's manna.

Sounds like you are both becoming sensitised towards it. As superglue contains cyanide, its a fairly nasty thing for anything containing er life, or moisture.

Paul.

Please do not take any notice of the cyanide comment above.

Cyanoacrylates do indeed contain a cyanide group and as such it is completely harmless - unlike inorganic cyanides which as suggested are deadly. It is easy to become emotive if you come across the term cyanide and assume that all molecules containing cyanide must be deadly. They are not.

Cyanoacrylates were developed to provide battlefront sutures - basically gluing wounds back together - and as such now have FDA approval for use in normal medical situation. FDA would not give such approval if there were even the slightest hint of the cyanide group causing a problem.

For anyone modelling the GER (just to keep this on track), the Prussian Blue pigment used on pre-WW1 locos is a potassium iron hexa-cyanide compound. It does not kill people - in fact it is also used to cure people who have some uncommon forms of poisoning.

G'Day Gents

I've been going back and clearing up a few older projects , some were waiting on bits, others on me, trying to figure out how to something. The R1, has been put back a bit as I didn't like the way it was going so the body was scrapped, I'll start again. The P1, is still progressing, I've worked how to fix the valve gear.

The D3, that I built a ways back has been running without anything in the cab and the wrong tender.

The C2, had everything but wouldn't run properly, but a bit of new wiring and a new tender drive fixed that.

The B1, has had a tender (bought from GBL ) made into a runner, the loco, just needs pick ups made.

manna

G'Day Gents

Been taking it a bit easier, with the old glue and paint, most of the time I have the fan on when gluing, and I've taken some of my paints out to the shed 20x20, so a big open space. I have rebuilt the R1, from the runningplate up, and yesterday gave it a coat of paint....it's getting there.

Today it was the P1's turn, everything is loose at the moment, but at least I know where everything goes.

manna

Can I ask please besides the gresley A1 body, what parts are you using to build the P1 2-8-2 locomotive.

I tried to create 1 of these locos a few years ago using an 8F 2-8-0 loco drive chassis with some alterations on the rear for the gresley rear bogie to be used under the cab of the loco.

Clearly the 8F chassis is incorrect for these locos but I would certainly be interested in knowledge of what parts I should be using on my loco.

Thankyou all in advance for any replies given.

G'Day Gents

Certainly Mersey, It's as you suspected a Hornby 2-8-0, I had a spare 0-8-0 chassis, an un-powered one, the front pony, is a white metal casting, which I have extended, the rear bogie is a A3, off of Gordon, I've again modified it, by cutting the connecting part off that goes under the engine, that's been extended to, D49 valve gear is being fitted, but I've had to 'Bulk' up the cylinders up, Tender drive is from a B17, at the moment! By the way, the chassis, has been turned about face. I'll put some more pics up, when I get the valve gear attached.

manna

Excellent, thankyou for that. Looking forward to seeing the pics.

manna wrote: ↑Fri Jun 21, 2019 9:47 pm G'Day Gents

Certainly Mersey, It's as you suspected a Hornby 2-8-0, I had a spare 0-8-0 chassis, an un-powered one, the front pony, is a white metal casting, which I have extended, the rear bogie is a A3, off of Gordon, I've again modified it, by cutting the connecting part off that goes under the engine, that's been extended to, D49 valve gear is being fitted, but I've had to 'Bulk' up the cylinders up, Tender drive is from a B17, at the moment! By the way, the chassis, has been turned about face. I'll put some more pics up, when I get the valve gear attached.

manna

Hi Manna,

I'm impressed by the look of the P1 project, it would look quite impressive in the LNER lined apple green too! Pondering over similar work myself, I saw a Heljan 02 on eBay, and though I did not bid, Checking the wheelbase in the RCTS books does show that an 02 chassis, potentially with bigger wheels to match the P1's, could be used as a donor for a P1 project (the wheels of my mind are turning...........)

Cheers, Paul.

It would be a good idea to have a close look at a dismantled (preferably reversibly) Heljan O2 chassis before deciding to try to re-wheel one.

Atlantic 3279 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 24, 2019 10:14 am It would be a good idea to have a close look at a dismantled (preferably reversibly) Heljan O2 chassis before deciding to try to re-wheel one.

I agree Graeme.

I may need to invest in one beforehand, though i'll be honest, the Heljan 02 doesn't set my world afire, so would be going the journey if I couldn't make something else with it. Anyway, the S1 and No.29 are to make first.

Paul.

G'Day Gents

Hi Paul. I did look at the O2 as a bases for the P1, but due to it's fragility, I passed it by, Since it's arrival in January, I've only picked it up twice, although it's done many circuits of Edgware, I do hope to fit a GN cab shortly. You could ignore the wheels and just fit a body and tender with pretty good results.

manna

manna wrote: ↑Mon Jun 24, 2019 10:55 pm G'Day Gents

Hi Paul. I did look at the O2 as a bases for the P1, but due to it's fragility, I passed it by, Since it's arrival in January, I've only picked it up twice, although it's done many circuits of Edgware, I do hope to fit a GN cab shortly. You could ignore the wheels and just fit a body and tender with pretty good results.

manna

Thanks Manna,

I did wonder about not changing the wheels, much as I vacillated about the wheel size on LHJC No.29, the difference is marginal unless 1. you have an exact scale model alongside, 2. its trundling around a track, so difficult to chase with a vernier! 3. its still more accurate than the track gauge!

Out of interest, what is the fragility issue with the O2, I haven't followed any threads on that particular class' model introduction, though its price reduction from quite lofty figures did make me wonder that something was amiss (then again, lots of the Heljan locos get heavily discounted).

Thanks, Paul.

G'Day Gents

Hi Paul, I'm pretty sure, that's caused by soft metal used in the valve gear, which makes susceptible to bending when you pick them up, also the valve gear 'Sticks' out a bit. The O2 thread on here would be a very good place to read up on them.

manna