On my Workbench
Moderators: 52D, Tom F, Rlangham, Atlantic 3279, Blink Bonny, Saint Johnstoun, richard
Re: On my Workbench...
I think I can still see a Vertical red line at the rear/left side of the tender?
This is wrong the red line should carry around horizontal above the bufferbeam at the bottom and follow the rear curve at the top. I am unable to confirm if the rear was double lined as the sides or not.
Due to wartime and post war conditions I have read the rear was not always double lined. Its a real pain to do , due to the steps and electric lighting ,therefore mine is only lined top and bottom as mentioned above.
This is wrong the red line should carry around horizontal above the bufferbeam at the bottom and follow the rear curve at the top. I am unable to confirm if the rear was double lined as the sides or not.
Due to wartime and post war conditions I have read the rear was not always double lined. Its a real pain to do , due to the steps and electric lighting ,therefore mine is only lined top and bottom as mentioned above.
- Blink Bonny
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 3946
- Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:21 pm
- Location: The Midlands
- Contact:
Re: On my Workbench...
OK - blue and red paints are about to be mixed and used.
Thanks Mick.
Thanks Mick.
If I ain't here, I'm in Bilston, scoffing decent chips at last!!!!
Re: On my Workbench...
Stunning work, gives you a lot of food for thought. The Bachmann A1 or the Hornby A3 for an A1/1 conversion - this one is very convincing, all the same. In short: loving the updates.
- 60800
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 2316
- Joined: Sun Apr 17, 2011 5:41 pm
- Location: N-Lincolnshire
- Contact:
Re: On my Workbench...
Has anyone attempted an RTR conversion to a P2 with A4 style nose?
36C - Based out of 50H and 36F
- Blink Bonny
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 3946
- Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:21 pm
- Location: The Midlands
- Contact:
Re: On my Workbench...
Here's a coupla more piccies of 4470, taken in the garden this PM. Nearly there....
OK, I got some glue stains to deal with around the smoke deflectors then comes the sad time. What do I build next?
I never did like choice!
OK, I got some glue stains to deal with around the smoke deflectors then comes the sad time. What do I build next?
I never did like choice!
If I ain't here, I'm in Bilston, scoffing decent chips at last!!!!
- Blink Bonny
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 3946
- Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:21 pm
- Location: The Midlands
- Contact:
Re: On my Workbench...
Still got a few details to add yet to GN - sadly, I'm out of crankpin washers so I've got some on order. Photos when ready. However, to go on with:
Should get the "gottahaveone!" collectors frothing at the mouth!
Anyway, to pastures new. We've had a few folks talking about weathering using an airbrush. I possess one of these items, the finest piece of dandy in my toolbox but I've never had any success with it when weathering. I was taught one method I shall outline below, the other I developed meself. OK, the lack the ultimate subtlety of airbrush work but they work for me.
To begin with we have:
One brand new, fresh from the box and exhibition running, one Bachmann Somerset and Dorset 7F. To this I have fitted the supplied detail pack but no more. She is in virgin condition and more than a little nervous!
Stage 1: this Bachmann G2A has been renumbered and matt varnished. Occasionally, this gives just the effect I want, especially if I apply a heavy coat with a brush, giving a nice "feel" of a slightly grubby engine with just a touch of a surface texture. Downward strokes on the boiler, cab and tender, a swirling action on the underframe should work. On this one, the first coat dried to a high gloss finish with all the matting agent in the gloop on the bottom of the tin which had reformed as soon as I stopped stirring. A new tin of matt varnish was in order. Both of these are destined for bigger and better things, however. Read on, dear reader, read on...
Should get the "gottahaveone!" collectors frothing at the mouth!
Anyway, to pastures new. We've had a few folks talking about weathering using an airbrush. I possess one of these items, the finest piece of dandy in my toolbox but I've never had any success with it when weathering. I was taught one method I shall outline below, the other I developed meself. OK, the lack the ultimate subtlety of airbrush work but they work for me.
To begin with we have:
One brand new, fresh from the box and exhibition running, one Bachmann Somerset and Dorset 7F. To this I have fitted the supplied detail pack but no more. She is in virgin condition and more than a little nervous!
Stage 1: this Bachmann G2A has been renumbered and matt varnished. Occasionally, this gives just the effect I want, especially if I apply a heavy coat with a brush, giving a nice "feel" of a slightly grubby engine with just a touch of a surface texture. Downward strokes on the boiler, cab and tender, a swirling action on the underframe should work. On this one, the first coat dried to a high gloss finish with all the matting agent in the gloop on the bottom of the tin which had reformed as soon as I stopped stirring. A new tin of matt varnish was in order. Both of these are destined for bigger and better things, however. Read on, dear reader, read on...
Last edited by Blink Bonny on Wed Sep 07, 2011 3:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
If I ain't here, I'm in Bilston, scoffing decent chips at last!!!!
- Blink Bonny
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 3946
- Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:21 pm
- Location: The Midlands
- Contact:
Re: On my Workbench...
Ay up!
Here's some I prepared earlier...
This was weathered from photgraphs of the engine working to Marylebone for the last time in BR service.
Meanwhile Bath's 44417 got the full treatment.
I'll be showing you how I got both these effects over the next few days. And note that the A-word won't be mentioned until (possibly) the very end.
Here's some I prepared earlier...
This was weathered from photgraphs of the engine working to Marylebone for the last time in BR service.
Meanwhile Bath's 44417 got the full treatment.
I'll be showing you how I got both these effects over the next few days. And note that the A-word won't be mentioned until (possibly) the very end.
If I ain't here, I'm in Bilston, scoffing decent chips at last!!!!
- Blink Bonny
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 3946
- Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:21 pm
- Location: The Midlands
- Contact:
Re: On my Workbench...
Ay up!
Here we go with the actual weathering. I've started on the G2A which will have a light coat of grubbiness.
This engine is being weathered with Tamiya Weathering Powder compacts. A super idea because you have control. And if you don't like the result, a rub with a white spirit soaked cotton bud removes it. Simples!
Always apply the powder using, as the final application, vertical strokes to simulate rain running down the sides. I do hope you applied the varnish like this, then the powders will take on the texture and "feel" of the varnish coat.
Conversely, for the underframe areas, I find a stippling action gives a faint "swirly" effect, really good.
This is the basic "soot" layer. Its a bit streaky but very subtle although a little too flat for my liking. A little rust is in order. This was applied using a stippling action again.
But not that much! That's too glaring, too unsubtle. It leaps from the model and looks wrong. However, all is not lost.
Here we go with the actual weathering. I've started on the G2A which will have a light coat of grubbiness.
This engine is being weathered with Tamiya Weathering Powder compacts. A super idea because you have control. And if you don't like the result, a rub with a white spirit soaked cotton bud removes it. Simples!
Always apply the powder using, as the final application, vertical strokes to simulate rain running down the sides. I do hope you applied the varnish like this, then the powders will take on the texture and "feel" of the varnish coat.
Conversely, for the underframe areas, I find a stippling action gives a faint "swirly" effect, really good.
This is the basic "soot" layer. Its a bit streaky but very subtle although a little too flat for my liking. A little rust is in order. This was applied using a stippling action again.
But not that much! That's too glaring, too unsubtle. It leaps from the model and looks wrong. However, all is not lost.
Last edited by Blink Bonny on Thu Sep 08, 2011 1:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
If I ain't here, I'm in Bilston, scoffing decent chips at last!!!!
- Blink Bonny
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 3946
- Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:21 pm
- Location: The Midlands
- Contact:
Re: On my Workbench...
As I said earlier, all is not lost. Help is at hand:
Add a little "soot" pigment over the orange rust and this calms the tone and blends it in to the rest of the loco. Wheels and tender underframe are given a little dusting of gunmetal and voila:
Now a bit of real coal, selected to show the dross issued to goods engines:
One lightly weathered G2A! Now, to give that S & D 7F the full treatment!
Any comments so far, gents?
Add a little "soot" pigment over the orange rust and this calms the tone and blends it in to the rest of the loco. Wheels and tender underframe are given a little dusting of gunmetal and voila:
Now a bit of real coal, selected to show the dross issued to goods engines:
One lightly weathered G2A! Now, to give that S & D 7F the full treatment!
Any comments so far, gents?
Last edited by Blink Bonny on Thu Sep 08, 2011 3:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
If I ain't here, I'm in Bilston, scoffing decent chips at last!!!!
Re: On my Workbench...
Loving Great Northern - a very good attempt and quite convincing at that. The colour is very nice too, has a nice depth to it. Impressed with the collection, I am sure someone better qualified will comment on the weathering in due course.
- Blink Bonny
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 3946
- Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:21 pm
- Location: The Midlands
- Contact:
Re: On my Workbench...
Ay up!
Glad to hear that, gents.
I'm about to start on the heavy weathering of the S & D 7F once Steptoe and Son has finished. Watch this space...
Glad to hear that, gents.
I'm about to start on the heavy weathering of the S & D 7F once Steptoe and Son has finished. Watch this space...
If I ain't here, I'm in Bilston, scoffing decent chips at last!!!!
- Blink Bonny
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 3946
- Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:21 pm
- Location: The Midlands
- Contact:
Re: On my Workbench...
Ay up!
OK - the first steps on the 7F.
The basis for the heavy treatment. To this will be added the powder compacts used on the G2A. I use enamel paints because they remain workable for much longer than do acrylics. Hairy sticks in several sizes - they're well past their best now. Must buy some more .
To apply the weathering, first put a thin coating of white spirit on the loco, hence the coating of matt varnish. White spirit will lift the transfers on some Bachmann products to don't work the varnish too much and don't apply the spirit on the virgin surface. You may end up with a loco devoid of printing.
Next up I select a suitable grey to form the base for the weathering coat. In this instance, I have used Precision Paints Dirty Black but GWR, LMS or LNER freight grey shades also give a good starting point. It is important to vary your starting shade because, although similar, no two grubby engines were the same shade so some darker, some lighter is more prototypical. This needs to be slightly exaggerated so the eye see it.
Add a little "rust" tone to the wheels. I use Humbrol Nos 28, 70, 110, 113 or 160 to taste. In this case, colour pictures suggested 113 so that's what I used. I stippled it onto the wheels while the grey was still "damp," hoping to blend it in better. In this I was disappointed!
However, all is not lost. All will be revealed in the next gripping instalment!
(Mrs BB: I'm going to stop him listening to Journey Into Space!)
OK - the first steps on the 7F.
The basis for the heavy treatment. To this will be added the powder compacts used on the G2A. I use enamel paints because they remain workable for much longer than do acrylics. Hairy sticks in several sizes - they're well past their best now. Must buy some more .
To apply the weathering, first put a thin coating of white spirit on the loco, hence the coating of matt varnish. White spirit will lift the transfers on some Bachmann products to don't work the varnish too much and don't apply the spirit on the virgin surface. You may end up with a loco devoid of printing.
Next up I select a suitable grey to form the base for the weathering coat. In this instance, I have used Precision Paints Dirty Black but GWR, LMS or LNER freight grey shades also give a good starting point. It is important to vary your starting shade because, although similar, no two grubby engines were the same shade so some darker, some lighter is more prototypical. This needs to be slightly exaggerated so the eye see it.
Add a little "rust" tone to the wheels. I use Humbrol Nos 28, 70, 110, 113 or 160 to taste. In this case, colour pictures suggested 113 so that's what I used. I stippled it onto the wheels while the grey was still "damp," hoping to blend it in better. In this I was disappointed!
However, all is not lost. All will be revealed in the next gripping instalment!
(Mrs BB: I'm going to stop him listening to Journey Into Space!)
If I ain't here, I'm in Bilston, scoffing decent chips at last!!!!
- Blink Bonny
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 3946
- Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:21 pm
- Location: The Midlands
- Contact:
Re: On my Workbench...
Ay up!
OK, three more piccies and I'll put it to bed for tonight. I've done all the dry brushing of rust that I need to and I've toned down the underframe areas with dirty black. It pays to have pictures handy - these were nowhere near as "brown" as I'd have thought. This shows the state of play as of now.
I'll calm that rust down a bit tomorrow and do some blending in. It still looks a bit flat, a bit monochromatic so there'll be a bit of tonal variation added.
OK, three more piccies and I'll put it to bed for tonight. I've done all the dry brushing of rust that I need to and I've toned down the underframe areas with dirty black. It pays to have pictures handy - these were nowhere near as "brown" as I'd have thought. This shows the state of play as of now.
I'll calm that rust down a bit tomorrow and do some blending in. It still looks a bit flat, a bit monochromatic so there'll be a bit of tonal variation added.
If I ain't here, I'm in Bilston, scoffing decent chips at last!!!!
- manna
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 3793
- Joined: Sun May 24, 2009 12:56 am
- Location: All over Australia
Re: On my Workbench...
G'Day Gents
The weathering is looking good and taking on that late BR steam look of neglect, although I never saw it, I've seen enough pictures of dirty rusty loco to know it happened, in South Aust. they did keep the steamers clean to the bitter end, they did get a little grubby in the late 60's'.
I have wondered if some of the ladies cosmetics (powders etc) could be used to weather locos, blacks,browns,greys etc even a pinky/white would be useful, anyone ever tried ????
BB, have you seen the Blue A3 (in colour) on the Return to Grantham thread (no lining on the back of the tender)
manna
The weathering is looking good and taking on that late BR steam look of neglect, although I never saw it, I've seen enough pictures of dirty rusty loco to know it happened, in South Aust. they did keep the steamers clean to the bitter end, they did get a little grubby in the late 60's'.
I have wondered if some of the ladies cosmetics (powders etc) could be used to weather locos, blacks,browns,greys etc even a pinky/white would be useful, anyone ever tried ????
BB, have you seen the Blue A3 (in colour) on the Return to Grantham thread (no lining on the back of the tender)
manna
EDGWARE GN, Steam in the Suburbs.