Daves C & W Works

[Dave]

Why thank you Mike you are too kind.

Fitting of vac pipe.
First I soldered each end of the vac pipe to the bottom inside lip of the headstocks then the first clip position is measured and the clip moved to suit. Open the clip and apply a bit of super glue and press in place with a cocktail stick or similar, wipe off any excess glue, repeat for all remaining clips. Again measure locations of tee's and connections and glue these in place. All this is only if you want to add this sort of detail, otherwise just add the vac pipe.

[Dave]

D10C - Now has it's veg tank, main battery boxes, brake gear and steam pipe fitted. I did not fit the wine tank I made, it was hidden between the battery box and the vac reservoir.

The vac cyl's and V's need to be assembled back to front/inside out (fold on the etched V needs to be on the outside) this is because they are reversed on the D10C for some reason ?. The cross rod between the V's (in this case) was replaced with a length of nickle silver rod and the whitemetal bits drilled and slotted on. The vac cyl's were drilled to take some plastic rod (over long) which is glued in place, then drilled to take some nickle silver wire to represent the pipework from the reservoir. This was heat treated to make it easier to bend. When fixed the plastic rod is cut back to represent the connection to the cyl.

[Dave]

Pipes from vac res to cyl's in 0.4 nickel silver wire, again heated to allow easy bending.

[Dave]

D113 - Pipes added and the underframe on this 1st D113 is almost complete I think.

[Dave]

Help wanted....somewhere on this site I seem to remember someone had painted the solebars of their LNER teak carriage with Vallejo acrylics...question, what was that colour. I'm interested because I'm going to experiment with acrylics on the D113.

[Dave]

D10C - Vac pipe fixed in position with clips.

[60800]

BB's gonna like these piccies, he never could resist a teak with it's top off

Just make sure to keep pictures of A4's with hatches open away from him

Absoloutely beautiful work by the way

[Dave]

The unused wine tank and last bits before priming.

[Atlantic 3279]

Impressively neat and RAPID construction Dave, with scratchbuilt corrective additions too! I'm thoroughly impressed. I ddin't realise that LNER diners consumed enough "sauce" on a regular basis to justify a wine TANK. Presumably there was only one grade of "fuel" on offer then?

[Dave]

Thank you Blackout and Graeme.
The wine tank suprised me, it's let into the floor with a grating on top, I wonder how many bottles got broken with a rough ride.

The D10c and 1st D113 I got sometime ago, their build has been a bit stop start due to work and illness, not all been done in a couple of weeks the 2nd D113 has nearly caught up, I could not match you Graeme for speed but I do like to crack on when I have a spare minute.......cut the seat blanks just now at work during lunch. I started the photo's as a record for a friend, it was easier than describing it, if you had to wait in real time for me you'd get bored with waiting for the next thrilling installment, they are not finished yet in real time, the pics have very nearly caught up.

[Dave]

D113, Just needs the steam pipe fitted and then it can be primed.

[Dave]

As the bodies are coming on well I thought it was about time to give the roofs some limelight. I need 3, 1 x D10C and 2 D113. The roofs are MJT cast ends with MJT aluminium centres, the aluminium extrusion is spot on in profile. I found the roofs a real pain and nearly gave up, I'm still not happy with one of them. Now I've never used these bits before and after the brass bits I had high hopes for a quick simple roof build. The problem I found was the cast ends don't fit very well to the main roof.

To start I measured the length of a body along the centre line, then I measured 2 end castings, and subtracted this from the o/a length, this dimension was marked on the aluminium. Several dims were marked on the roof, then some thin squared up brass was taped to the gutter and gently bent over the roof and taped down, after ensuring the edge ran through the measured points, scribe a line using the brass as a template. I did not remove the brass at this stage. Next problem, what to cut the roof with, a hacksaw blade was too course and a mini cutting disc in my hand too wobbly, I used a razor saw up against the brass as a guide, this left a good edge with little cleaning up required. Next the old glass plate trick to assemble it on, this is when I found out they don't go well together. On this roof I filled the lip down on the casting till it fitted well under the aluminium, but there was a difference in height between the aluminium and the castings at places round the roof.

[Atlantic 3279]

I evidently misunderstood regarding the term "wine tank". I hadn't envisaged an airstream-cooled, below-floor bottle store, I was thinking in terms of bulk wine on draught, ludicrous as that may sound.......

[60800]

Don't worry, I thought the same

[Dave]

Oh dear you silly boys ....but wine on tap a nice thought.

Right 2nd roof, just the same as the 1st except I cut the lip back on the end castings to leave just the central portion (about 10mm). This fitted ok to the main roof without filing, but the difference in heights and profile still remained. The 3rd roof I cut the aluminium 4mm short leaving a 2mm gap between it and the castings, the idea was to fill the gap with filler (Squadron Green) and sand to shape, all the roofs need filler to the ends to some degree, and I can't decide which is the best way out of the 3. All ends and roofs were glued with 5min epoxy, but due to my messing about they felt weak. I strengthened the joints with micropore and super glue (micropore is a sticky tape used in hospitals). This is a brilliant method for joining different materials, tubes etc, the super glue reacts with the micropore and sets instantly and rock hard, forming a very strong joint.
You can see on the 1st 2 pics were the filler filled the differences in profile etc, the 3rd pic is the micropore joint.