Daves C & W Works

[sawdust]

Yes Dave, I too look forward to the next step of your project!

Sawdust.

[Dave]

Thanks for your kind comments Rob, Mike and Sawdust, absolutley no pressure ther then.......

Mike your tip about wooden pegs is a good one, wish I'd thought of that, but we don't have any....all plastic with squidgy ends.
Sawdust, what a lovely job you are doing, I'm following that one with great interest and can't wait to have a ride.

[Dave]

Going back to the fixings of the panels I forgot to say the long ones were a bit of a faff to fix. The first one I did I tack soldered both ends and after checking all was ok soldered round from each end till I got to the middle.......not a brilliant idea, it expanded with the heat and bulged in the middle, I cured that by appling heat to the soldered bits and pressing down hard. Before I did the next one I had a little think....then tacked one end and when satisfied all was ok worked from the tacked end to the other.....a much better result, live and learn.

Now I hope someone out there has a better solution to share with us.

[Dave]

Sides to D113 done, I've only shown one

[MikeTrice]

Now I hope someone out there has a better solution to share with us.

Start in the middle and work outwards?

[Dave]

Cheers Mike.......I must think harder in future DOH!!!

I've read many accounts in the modelling press on how so and so built this carriage and that carriage but non of them say how they actually did it, they all assume you've done it before. They never say they cocked up, burnt their fingers or needed help, thats what always made coach building seem so difficult and put me off. As you can see, I'm far from an expert in my brass skills.

[Dave]

D10C floor plate formed....just watch out at the ends that you remove the cusp as it will stop the side upstand and the ends from being square...they foul each other (not by much). I always bend a little bit further than 90deg, then pull it back to 90 and check with a square...this seems to take the spring out of the fold and you easily get a good 90deg bend.

[MikeTrice]

I've read many accounts in the modelling press on how so and so built this carriage and that carriage but non of them say how they actually did it, they all assume you've done it before.

There was a time when magazines printed a pretty good account of how models were built however the trend in recent years is to dumb down and just print a series of photographs with captions (the exception being MRJ). As a result I often find I notice something in a photo and think "I wonder how they did that" only to find no mention in the few words printed. With the advent of the internet this has become even more the case and I find the likes of RMWeb far more enlightening with the added bonus that you can actually ask the poster to clarify any aspect.

I should add that the photo and caption approach works well on the web as the number of photos are not restricted so you get a far better step by step approach.

Anyway back to your build. It is looking good.

[Blink Bonny]

Ay up!

I've just discovered that my next commission is to be a set of Southern Pride "Bournemouth" coaches.

I think I may need this inspiration! Please keep the piccies coming, this is fascinating.

[Dave]

Ok BB here are some of the D113 floorplate and sides, I know it's like the D10C pics but they will differ soon.

Now....does anybody know of a supplier of seats suitable for the D10C, I have some Kirk seat strips that could be altered, but I need seats with arm rests doubles and singles, and I'm feeling lazy at the moment.

I feel seats could be a good thing for Shapeways.

[Dave]

D10C - one side fixed to the floor pan. I found this a tricky area as you are working in 2 planes - horizontal and vertical with a curve thrown in and it is difficult to hold together, ideally 3 hands.

I sat the floor pan on some plate glass and offered up the side, some blue tack to stop them moving on the glass, then a bit of solder to the cant rail/ends at both ends. This fixes the body panel and allows you (after checking all is ok) to hold the body assembly pressed at an angle to keep the bottom of the body in contact with the edge of the floor pan. I use a block of vermiculite to press against and solder. A bit of solder to the middle and tack out towards the ends. When you are happy and cooled your fingers you can run solder along the joint, I did this on the inside of the carriage. When you have finished the body projects slightly past the end and forms a slight lip (to take the cast ends). There are a number of slots in the floor pan, keep these clear it's easy for the solder to fill them.

[davidwest]

I'll be very interested to see how you do the roof details as this has given me concern on my build.

[Dave]

David,

The old roof question.......
I'm doing a 1928 version so it won't have all the later filler pipes.
Mike Trice and I have been looking through the drawings at the NRM for D10C related drawings for sometime now, I did a quick tot up of the drawings that are related, and came to 111, which amazed me, many of which of course were used on other carriages.

Mike posted some D10C roof drawings on the "further D10C restaurant car question" thread recently

[Dave]

Side B fixed to floor pan.

It was hot and I dropped the thing...not much damage, I probably broke many h&s rules.

[Dave]

D113 - Nothing really to add about this, except I've added some side formers from some scrap brass to add strength as it won't have any partitons unlike the D10C. I used an internal partition as a former and scribed round it, filed to shape not cut as I did not want it to curl.