The LNER Encyclopedia

It may be worth considering using Comet V2 valve gear and modify if you need to. Depends how confident you are fiddling around with valve gear? I have't measured the two but imagine the V2 might have longer rods.

I would take this approach if the Heljan valve gear is beyond repair?

Andrew

Woodcock29 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 16, 2019 12:42 pm It may be worth considering using Comet V2 valve gear and modify if you need to. Depends how confident you are fiddling around with valve gear? I have't measured the two but imagine the V2 might have longer rods.

I would take this approach if the Heljan valve gear is beyond repair?

Andrew

This is the annoying thing - it's literally just the eccentric on the RHS of the locomotive. All else is fine (bar the feeble handrails etc). The eccentric was missing when I took delivery of the model (second hand).

Whether you mean the eccentric crank (on the crankpin) or the eccentric rod (connects the eccentric crank to the expansion link) both are just small pieces of metal with two holes in. Rather wasteful to buy an entire valve gear kit to renew this? A little nickel silver sheet and several attempts will probably get you there by DIY. Drill the holes first, (mark and cut the fluting if it is the eccentric rod) and only then cut out. There's a lot of cheap s/h outside gear locos available if you can do this kind of stuff.

Hatfield Shed wrote: ↑Wed Jan 16, 2019 3:44 pm Whether you mean the eccentric crank (on the crankpin) or the eccentric rod (connects the eccentric crank to the expansion link) both are just small pieces of metal with two holes in. Rather wasteful to buy an entire valve gear kit to renew this? A little nickel silver sheet and several attempts will probably get you there by DIY. Drill the holes first, (mark and cut the fluting if it is the eccentric rod) and only then cut out. There's a lot of cheap s/h outside gear locos available if you can do this kind of stuff.

It was more for ease of "plug in and play" of just replacing valve gear like for like with Heljan spares.

I haven't got as much time as I used to for modelling sadly. It's all in snatched moments mostly at night at the minute. I will have a look at it and see what I can do though.

(It was the eccentric rod plus the expansion link that were missing as it happens!)

Alan Gibson does a nice cast brass eccentric crank. You will need a suitable tap.

Woodcock29 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 15, 2018 5:55 am A B1 chimney is definitely what you need. I used a Crownline B1 chimney on mine - from what I had in stock. See photo below.

The photo shows how badly the lower section of the boiler is lined up with the plastic boiler top when I reassembled it. I'm loathe to pull it apart again - as others have indicated it is a 'cow' to put back together. Its not really noticeable on the layout fortunately. A real pity that this was not up to the standard of other RTR LNER 2-8-0s.

Andrew

I'm not totally convinced of the B1 chimney replacement.

Here is a B1 with its chimney
And here is 63924
They don't look the same style chimneys to me, but then maybe I need to visit Specsavers.

Hello John, I have to say , I agree with you about the O2 and B1 chimney. But then again, I'm like you , maybe I need specsavers .
It's nice to have a Tango or two isn't it . I worked on them from Grantham , and you lived along the "boardsides" I remember . So we both have cherished memories don't we .

Regards , Roy.

Albert and John I think you'll find the issues are around the angle the chimney is viewed from.

Try looking at the chimney on the second and third photos on the O2 page of the loco section of this LNER website and compare with photos on the Thompson B1 page.

Of course not all model chimneys stated to be for a B1 are the same!

I think the one I used on my O2/3 was an old brass Crownline chimney. I also have one from the same manufacturer that is much too 'waisted'.

Regards
Andrew Emmett

Gents - I am looking to use a GNR pattern chimney I obtained from Graeme King of this parish. I believe Graeme has used these on his O2 models previously.

All depends on class sub-part and period.....

Atlantic 3279 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 28, 2019 2:06 pm All depends on class sub-part and period.....

Fair comment. I need to do a little research before I modify mine. Pick a photograph to model I guess!

The chimneys I have been talking about are those on O2/2 and O2/3s, ie on locos to LNER height.

Andrew

ROY@34F wrote: ↑Fri Jan 25, 2019 8:48 pm Hello John, I have to say , I agree with you about the O2 and B1 chimney. But then again, I'm like you , maybe I need specsavers .
It's nice to have a Tango or two isn't it . I worked on them from Grantham , and you lived along the "boardsides" I remember . So we both have cherished memories don't we .

Regards , Roy.

We certainly do have cherished memories, Roy. The board sides was where we tried to get our parents to race trains, especially those going to/from Skeg/Mablethorpe in Summer. I actually lived in Heckington and you probably passed our place many times. It was on the left coming from Sleaford across a small field just before the level crossing.

I think it is great having Tangos. I would buy more if only the wife would let me; and with an O1 and O4 as well; plus the WD, things have never been better despite the slight model imperfections. (An O4/8 would be nice, but apparently it is possible to marry an O1 body and cab with an O4 chassis, but my fat fingers might not manage it. I might be tempted to have a go sometime, though).

I hope Heljan are not put off by some of the adverse comments, and other O2 variants will appear in the future.

Going O/T, I don't know if this was the forum I mentioned a query; but I have finally found out the answer. The WD with oil tanks which used to pass Heckington around 2030-2100 on certain evenings in the early 1960s, was a Colwick to Immingham working. The reason I never saw the westbound loaded train is because it passed by in the small hours of the morning.

strang steel wrote: ↑Tue Jan 29, 2019 8:26 pm An O4/8 would be nice, but apparently it is possible to marry an O1 body and cab with an O4 chassis, but my fat fingers might not manage it. I might be tempted to have a go sometime...

Lower cost option is to obtain an old Replica or Bachmann B1 body (plenty available that have long worn out their mechanisms) and adapt that to the O4 undercrackers.

Heljan have decided to go ahead with further versions of the O2.

Versions:
3900 LNER black ‘O2/2’ No. 3501 with low running plate, GN cab and tender
3902 BR early emblem ‘O2/2’ No. 63933 with low running plate, GN cab and tender
3903 BR late crest ‘O2/2’ No. 63940 with low running plate, GN cab and GNR tender, short chimney
3930 GNR lined grey ‘O2/1’ No. 477 with low running plate, GN cab and tender, tall chimney
3931 LNER black ‘O2/1’ No. 3481 with low running plate, GN cab and tender, tall chimney
3940 LNER black ‘O2/4’ No. 3485 with low running plate, side window cab and GNR tender, short chimney
3942 BR early emblem black ‘O2/4' No. 63945 with low running plate, GN cab and tender, short chimney
3943 BR early emblem black ‘O2/4’ No. 63932 with low running plate, side window cab and GN tender, short chimney

Features:
· Now with Great Northern cab and tender options
· O2/1, O2/2 and O2/4 variants
· Detailed footplate and cab
· Sprung Buffers
· Authentic boiler, cab, tender, chimney and running plate variations
· Wire handrails
· DCC and Sound Ready
· Expected Q4 2020