Much doodling at Earlswood

[jwealleans]

That looks like an H1024 or possible a shorter variant of same. I forget what sizes they come in.

[Manxman1831]

Looks like a Hanazono 1024 to me - usually fitted in the 31/35mm Tenshodo motor bogies. Quite powerful motors, but do tend to run VERY hot in the motor bogies - will melt the plastic of the bogie and any surrounding plastic with prolonged periods of use. I know to my own cost.

[earlswood nob]

Good morning all

Thanks for the info on the motor.

When tested the loco ran very fast, far to fast compared to my fleet of locos, with poor slow running control.

Whilst it would be stretching realism to far, it seems the D49's were driven slowly on approach to stations as their riding was rough through cross-over's etc. Another obscure fact from the study of Yeadons registers.

Earlswood nob

[earlswood nob]

G’day all
As everyone must be enjoying the barbecue weather or watching the world cup, there have been few posts of actual modelling. So I am posting a project that I’m chugging away on. The D49 tender seems reluctant to separate, and I ran short of rivets to complete the valve gear. It’s amazing how they disappear when dropped, never to be seen again.
I purchased a DJH J10 at a good price to convert into a J13, which is basically a small wheeled version of the J10, with a smaller tender.
I have used an old BEC 4000gal tender to convert into the 3080gal version. . The tender side sheets were sawn away from the chassis sideframes and 4mm was removed from the bottom of the side sheets. The front and back plates were also reduced in size. The modified superstructure was then soldered together. A 1mm plasticard floor was superglued to the tender. A Comet tender chassis was available in my spares box. However, the Gibson wheels seemed a tight fit and had no sideplay which would have made cornering difficult. I then discovered that the chassis had been built using EM spacers. It can only surmise that it was a chassis built after a visit to the pub, and put to one side as it was incorrect. I disassembled the chassis, filed the EM spacers down to 00 width and reassembled the chassis. I made a couple of spacer strips to go between the chassis and the tender floor.

The eagle eyed amongst you will spot that the tender has an axle missing. I only had two axles of the correct size wheels. The axle do not quite line up with the axleboxes either, but the tender chassis is not yet fixed to the floor, so that will adjusted.

Earlswood nob

[earlswood nob]

G’day all
Things are slow as I’m waiting for a few items, but haven’t ordered them yet as I’m waiting until I get enough wants to make the postage charges worthwhile. A strained back is also limiting the time I can spend sitting at my workbench.
I have found that a couple of my suspended projects involving GCR locos from Hornby bodies, need a wider cab. I wish I had realised that earlier, but I’ll think of solutions as I enjoy the long country walks that seem to ease my back.
However, I am suffering from withdrawal symptoms, so decided to start a conversion that I’ve been promising myself for a while.
I started with a Hornby A1 body, and cut away the splashers and footplate.

I also cut away the fooplate under the smokebox as I need a lower footplate.

Then I cut some lengths of brass strip to make the new footplate sides.

Now for a late lunch break, resting my back, before soldering up the footplate sides.

Earlswood nob

[nzpaul]

I once had an A1 that ended up looking very much like that, this has an extremely familiar feel to it. Mine ended up being (unofficially) called Mike. Watching with interest.

Cheers
Paul

[earlswood nob]

G’day all
Things are slow as it’s rather hot, and I got diverted yesterday to an exchange for economic tokens and beverages containing ethyl alcohol.

I have soldered up one side of the footplate edge, and shaped the second side.
I am using Carrs 224deg solder as I have to solder the actual footplate to the sides.

No doubt people already realise the loco that I’m trying to construct.

I have no skills or training and cannot saw in a straight line, so if I can make an effort at a loco anyone can. My soldering is also self-taught via burnt fingers. Blink Bonny did post some soldering tips a while ago if anyone is nervous about soldering.

Earlswood nob

[Manxman1831]

Hi fella. If your loco is the one I think it is going to be, I think it might need the smokebox extending slightly? Assuming it is ET's folly.

[nzpaul]

oh, hang on, that's not where I thought you were heading at all.....best of luck if your building one of those ugly Pacifics.

Cheers
Paul

[Tom F]

Hmmm, my bets are on 2404!

[earlswood nob]

G’day all
Slowly getting back to modelling as my back has improved and I can now sit at my workbench for a while without pain.
A couple projects have stalled until I go shopping for materials. I have been researching the J39/3’s which were fitted to ex-NER tenders. Atlantic 3279 has shown the J39’s with the various GS tenders.
The first ever loco kit that I built was a Wills kit with a GS4200 flush sided tender. I mistakenly numbered it as 1471. Green books covering the J39’s hadn’t been published then. Little did I realise that 1471 was a J39/3 and should have a different tender.
I have finally got round to renovating 1471 and a couple of other J39’s that I bought cheaply from Ebay. All three were glued together and after a soak overnight in NaOH followed by Nitromors, they are all back to a kit of parts.
I also bought a Bachmann J39 with a split chassis. It did not run well at first, but after advice from this forum, I cleaned out the axleboxes etc, and the slow running is now excellent. The loco will now run smoothly at less than scale 1mph, and push a train of white metal tenders weighing 1.5kg up a slight incline. This is equivalent to over thirty wagons, as well as a white metal tender.
I have posed the ex-NER tenders with the Bachmann J39, to show the state of play;
First we have 1471 with it new ex-C7 tender as fitted from 9/38. The tender is from a DJH D20 with cutback coal rails.

Second will be 1453 with a ex-B13 tender as fitted from 12/38. The tender is from Dave Alexander.

Third will be 1477 with an ex-A2 tender as fitted from 10/34. The tender is from a Nu-cast Q6.

The tenders are not finished yet and will eventually fitted with chassis from 52F models who make a very good NER tender chassis.

Now to give myself eye-strain assembling the brake gear for a 52F chassis, before strolling to the rugby club to enjoy a game and a few beers.

Earlswood nob

[2002EarlMarischal]

Hmmm, my bets are on 2404!

If it is, and I would agree from the look of the running plate, then PLEASE consider the possibility of your handiwork being the basis for a resin master.

[earlswood nob]

Afternoon all

It is an attempt at 2404. There needs to be an extension ring added to the boiler with a shortened smokebox.
The running plate is being made up from brass. If it was made from plasticard, it might be a possible resin master. However, the length of model would make it difficult to cast.
I've never thought of making small radius bends to 1mm plasticard sheet, which would be needed to make the footplate. Perhaps a hot air gun played onto plasticard wrapped around brass tubing might work, but I don't have one.
If anyone has any ideas, I'd be pleased to read them, or somebody with better modelling skills might make a better attempt.

Earlswood nob

[Pebbles]

Just a point. Most DJH tenders (with possible exception of the A2), for some reason, have wheelbases of 6ft x 6ft rather than 6ft 4inches x 6ft 4inches. You may encounter problems with the correct wheelbase 52F chassis.

[earlswood nob]

Good morning all

Thanks Pepples for the info on tenders. I have measured the DJH D20 tender against a C7 drawing and the wheelbase is short, by just over 1mm, but not as much as 2.7mm which it would be if it was scale 6'+6'. It seems a 52F chassis would need about 1mm removed from the rear end to fit. I do have a DJH A2 kit, which I shall probably fit with an 8 wheel tender, but am reluctant to use the tender as I may change my mind if I get 2404 running. I separated the sideframes from the sidesheets on the D20 in error, so if the tender axleboxes do not match up, I can remove them easily, saw through the frame cutouts, back with thin metal at the correct wheelbase and fill the small gaps.
Re 2404:
Another problem regarding producing a resin mould for 2404, would be its non standard chassis. The wheelbase is slightly different to the A3. I have built a scratch chassis, and will make the splashers to suit this wheelbase.
Nothing is ever as simple in practice as the idea is in the mind.

Earlswood nob
P.S. I should mention that I have no connection with 52F models, other than a satisfied customer.